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Bake for 21 to 23 minutes. You can’t really do a toothpick test here because of the jelly filling, but the cupcakes should be done by this point. The tops should be firm.

➣The cheaper your jam, the more authentic your donut will taste, so skip the organic spreadable fruit stuff here and go for the bright red, ambiguously “berry”-flavored supermarket brand. The cops down at the station will thank you for it.

➣The trick to these cupcakes is to leave them out in a cool place overnight, so make these a day ahead if you can, although it’s fine if you can’t wait.

Remove from the oven and let cool completely on wire racks.

Once cooled, set them someplace cool and dry, and leave uncovered. If it’s winter, leave them in your coldest room. If it’s summer, leave them somewhere air-conditioned, if possible. If it’s not possible, don’t sweat it—just don’t leave them anywhere very warm. Let them sit overnight and preferably up to 24 hours. This will make the tops dry and a little bit crispy and more donutlike.

Sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar (using a sifter if you have one). Serve with coffee.

VANILLA-YOGURT POUND CAKE

MAKES 1 LOAF

TIME: ABOUT 1 HOUR 30 MINUTES

Pound cake should be simple: just sweet enough, with a hint of vanilla, citrus, or other aromatic flavors. Densely textured yet moist. Lovingly delivers abundant calories directly to your thighs and waist with each meltingly tender bite. Without the usual pound of butter and eggs, in this recipe we’ve made good use of vanilla soy yogurt and silken tofu to get the job done. The flavor and texture of this cake develops as it cools, so be sure to allow the loaf to cool to room temperature before slicing. And don’t forget that pound cake loves to be adorned with fresh berries, or sliced and lightly toasted with a little dab of your favorite vegan margarine.

½ cup vanilla soy yogurt

½ cup blended silken tofu (blend the tofu first, then measure it out)

¾ cup vanilla or plain soy milk

1¼ cups sugar

½ cup canola oil

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

½ teaspoon lemon extract, or ½ teaspoon grated lemon zest

½ teaspoon orange extract, or ½ teaspoon grated orange zest

2 cups all-purpose flour

3 tablespoons arrowroot powder

1 ½ teaspoons baking powder

½ teaspoons baking soda

½ teaspoon salt

PREHEAT THE oven to 325°F. Lightly grease and flour a 9 × 5-inch loaf pan. A metal pan with a dark finish is the best choice for this cake.

In a large bowl, combine the soy yogurt, blended silken tofu, soy milk, sugar, oil, and extracts. Use an electric mixture to beat until everything is smooth, about 2 minutes.

Sift in the flour, arrowroot powder, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Stir with a rubber spatula to combine, then beat with electric beaters for 1½ to 2 minutes, until a very thick batter forms. Don’t overmix.

Pour the batter into the prepared loaf pan. Use the rubber spatula to scrape all of the batter out of the bowl and smooth the top of the loaf. Bake for 60 to 65 minutes, until a toothpick or thin sharp knife inserted into the center comes out clean (a little moisture is okay). Don’t open the oven to peek for at least the first 45 minutes of baking!

➣This cake has a very thick batter and requires a well-preheated oven at just the right temp to rise properly. Allow the oven to heat for at least 20 minutes and, as always, use an oven thermometer.

➣For best results, use a pan that’s no bigger than 9 x 5-inches. Using an 8 x 4-inch pan also works great.

Remove from the oven and let cool in the pan 10 minutes, then carefully transfer the loaf to a wire rack to cool completely before slicing. Store the cake in an airtight container.

Variations: Nut, Chocolate Chip, and/or Fruited Pound Cake: Stir in ½ to 1 cup of any of the following: toasted chopped walnuts, chocolate chips, raisins, dried sweetened cranberries, dried chopped cherries (if using cherries, omit the citrus extracts and use 1 teaspoon of almond extract instead).

Lemon Pound Cake: Use lemon yogurt