What We Eat When We Eat Alone - Deborah Madison [30]
Green Penne with Potatoes and Broccoli
What makes this dish green are all the little bits of broccoli that break off into the pasta water. As for amounts, judge for yourself by eye what you think you want to eat, in what proportion, and if you want leftovers. If you’re a huge broccoli fan, use even twice as much. If you’re going light on pasta, use fewer noodles.
And don’t throw up your hands at potatoes and pasta in the same dish—the contrasting soft and firm textures are a pleasure to eat.
1 HEAD OR MORE BROCCOLI, WITH OR WITHOUT THE STEM, CUT INTO SMALL FLORETS
2 SMALL POTATOES, ANY KIND, PEELED AND DICED INTO 1⁄2-INCH CHUNKS
SALT AND PEPPER
1 OR 2 HANDFULS PENNE RIGATE OR SMOOTH PENNE
OLIVE OIL
2 ANCHOVIES (OPTIONAL)
2 GARLIC CLOVES, MINCED OR PRESSED
A FEW PINCHES RED PEPPER FLAKES
1 LEMON, ZEST AND JUICE TO TASTE
PARMESAN, ASIAGO, OR PECORINO ROMANO CHEESE FOR GRATING
1. First, get a big pot of water heating, then cut the vegetables. If using the broccoli stem, peel it thickly, then dice it into chunks about the same size as the potatoes.
2. When the water is boiling, add salt, then the broccoli, potatoes, and pasta, and boil until the pasta is done, usually about 8 minutes, but taste it to make sure. The broccoli florets will float to the surface, so you can scoop them out early if you don’t want them too soft.
3. Once you’ve got the vegetables cooking, heat a skillet that will hold everything and add about 3 tablespoons olive oil with the anchovies and mash them into the oil. Add the garlic and pepper flakes, and turn the heat to very low. When the pasta and vegetables are done, scoop them out and add to the pan along with some of the water. Add the lemon zest, toss well, and taste for salt. Season with freshly ground pepper. For sharpness, squeeze in a little of the lemon juice. Transfer to a heated dish and grate cheese over all.
Spaghetti with Sun-Dried Tomatoes, Olives, and Capers
This hearty spaghetti supper was mentioned at least a few times. One man makes it with sun-dried tomatoes, another with fresh, while a third uses canned. Anchovies are often added, and one lone cook topped his spaghetti with sautéed shrimp. However you approach it, there should be plenty of big lusty flavor from the pepper flakes, olives, garlic—everything, really. These are approximate amounts.
SALT
3 TO 4 OUNCES SPAGHETTI
2 TABLESPOONS OLIVE OIL
1 LARGE GARLIC CLOVE, MINCED OR PRESSED
2 HEALTHY PINCHES RED PEPPER FLAKES
3 TABLESPOONS SLIVERED SUN-DRIED TOMATOES PACKED IN OIL, OR ABOUT A CUP OF DICED FRESH CHERRY OR ROMA TOMATOES
3 ANCHOVIES, FINELY CHOPPED
2 TABLESPOONS CHOPPED KALAMATA OR NIÇOISE OLIVES
1 TABLESPOON CAPERS
3 TABLESPOONS CHOPPED PARSLEY
A FEW SPRIGS SLIVERED BASIL OR A TEASPOON CHOPPED OREGANO
GRATED ZEST OF 1 SMALL LEMON, PLUS JUICE, TO TASTE
PARMESAN CHEESE FOR GRATING
1. Bring a big pot of water to boil for the pasta. When it boils, add plenty of salt and then the spaghetti.
2. While the spaghetti is cooking, chop the rest of the ingredients, including the lemon zest, and put them in a bowl big enough for the finished dish.
3. When the spaghetti is done, drain it, then immediately add it to the bowl and toss. Taste a strand and add more salt or a squeeze of lemon juice, if needed. Add grated cheese to taste.
Hungry Man’s pasta with Arugulaand Almond Pesto
Following the suggestion of what our hungry man chose for a solo dinner, this is what we came up with. It’s rather more pungent and less floral than a pesto made with basil, given the anchovies and arugula, but it does wonders for spaghetti. It will keep for the better part of the week. Toss it with potatoes, spread it on croutons, and use it where you’d use other pestos. This makes enough for