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magazine who says she stabs the hell out of steak—really stabs it. But that’s just to make it tender. Then she cooks it over a low, gentle heat, which a man probably wouldn’t do.

Soft Avocado Taco

Makes 2

A ripe avocado diced and tossed with salsa and then tucked into soft corn tortillas is a fundamental food. Have it with the tomatillo salsa, salsa fresca, or whatever your favorite hot sauce happens to be. Fresh cilantro is always welcome, of course.

For cheese, use a melting Muenster or Monterey Jack, accented with crumbles of Cotija, a dry, sharp Mexican cheese. And don’t feel you have to eat an entire avocado at once. You don’t. If you have a half left, just put it in a waxed paper sandwich bag and refrigerate for the next day. You might want to slice off any discolored surfaces, but otherwise, it will be fine.

2 CORN TORTILLAS

1/2 AVOCADO, CUT INTO CHUNKS

SALSA, YOUR CHOICE

A FEW CHERRY TOMATOES, HALVED

SALT

CRUMBLED COTIJA, GRATED MUENSTER, AND/OR JACK CHEESE

CHOPPED CILANTRO

1. Put the corn tortillas in a hot skillet without any oil over medium-high heat. Turn them occasionally to warm them throughout while you make the filling.

2. Mix the avocado with a few spoonfuls of salsa and the cherry tomatoes. Season with a pinch or two of salt.

3. When the tortillas are hot and soft, cover them with the cheese or cheeses, let melt a little, then spoon the avocado on half of each one, add the cilantro, fold, and eat. That’s it.

A Diety Cottage Cheese Plate with Watercress and Cucumbers

You can use any or all kinds of cucumbers—lemon cukes with their bright yellow skins, skinny Persian cucumbers, or scalloped Armenians. Mixing chopped watercress into the cottage cheese flecks it with bits of green and makes it nicely peppered. I like the integrated flavors, but leave them separate if you prefer. Spoon the cottage cheese on your toast and add cucumbers, or eat everything separately.

A 3- OR 4-INCH LENGTH OF CUCUMBER

A HANDFUL OF WATERCRESS, PLUS A FEW SPRIGS

COTTAGE CHEESE, YOUR FAVORITE STYLE

1 RIPE TOMATO, CUT INTO WEDGES OR ROUNDS

OLIVE OIL

SALT AND PEPPER

TOAST, RICE CAKES, OR CRACKERS

1. Slice as much cucumber as you want to eat. Should you have a tenderskinned cucumber from the farmers market, don’t bother to peel it. Do peel a cucumber if it’s been waxed.

2. Set aside the sprigs of watercress. Break off and discard the tougher stems of the rest, then chop finely. Stir the watercress into the cottage cheese. Mound the cottage cheese onto a plate and surround it with the cucumbers and tomatoes. Drizzle a little olive oil over all, then add a pinch of salt and freshly ground pepper.

3. Tuck the toast, rice cakes, or crackers onto the plate. Add those watercress sprigs you set aside to make the plate pretty.

Tomato Salad with Black Pepper and Hard Cheese

Whether you’ve procured tomatoes from your own garden or someone else’s via the farmers market, a plate of colorful heirloom or Creole tomatoes is a sure and festive bet for any eater. A tomato salad might be dinner for a light eater, but it also makes a fine accompaniment to roast chicken, skillet cheese, and egg dishes of all kinds. Don’t be afraid to be generous, because you can cook any leftover tomato into a tangy little sauce in just a few minutes. It may not yield much, but it will be delicious stirred into an omelet or frittata.

A SCANT POUND OF HEIRLOOM TOMATOES, INCLUDING SOME OF THE TINY “FRUIT” VARIETIES

2 SCALLIONS, FINELY SLICED, INCLUDING A BIT OF THE GREENS

2 TEASPOONS RED WINE VINEGAR OR AN HERBAL WHITE VINEGAR

SALT AND PEPPER

2 TABLESPOONS OF YOUR BEST OLIVE OIL FRESH HERBS, SUCH AS BASIL, LOVAGE LEAVES, OR DILL, TORN OR SLIVERED

HARD CHEESE, SUCH AS AGED GOAT, GOUDA, OR ASIAGO, SHAVED

GOOD CRUSTY BREAD

Slice the larger tomatoes into rounds and lay them on a dinner plate. Halve the smaller fruit tomatoes (cherry and plum varieties) and scatter them over the others. Combine the scallions in a small bowl with the vinegar and