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What We Eat When We Eat Alone - Deborah Madison [68]

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rice that will be perfectly cooked, that is neither crunchy (undercooked) nor mushy (overcooked).

Brown rice

The dense short grains of brown rice take longer to cook than any other kind, but if you are a fan of its clean flavor and chewy texture, you know it’s worth it. Cooked brown rice can be reheated and it won’t break down. It’s strong and good and will wait for you to use it over several days, should you have leftovers. The one thing you really do need is a saucepan with a tight-fitting lid.

1 CUP SHORT-GRAIN BROWN RICE

2 CUPS WATER

3⁄8 TEASPOON SALT

Rinse the rice and put it in a saucepan with the water and salt. Bring it to a boil, then cover the pot and turn the heat to low. Cook for 40 minutes without peeking or poking at it. Remove the lid and taste a grain. If you don’t think it’s done but all the water has been absorbed (this can happen at high altitudes where water boils at a lower temperature, or it can happen if the heat was too high and you boiled away a lot of the water early on), sprinkle 4 tablespoons water over the rice, return the lid, and cook another ten minutes. It should be done. If not, repeat until it is.

White Rice

Basmati rice has its own rules—it gets soaked so that the final grains are long and separate. But all other white rice gets cooked like this:

2 CUPS WATER

1 CUP WHITE RICE

3⁄8 TEASPOON SALT

Bring the water to a boil, pour in the rice, and add salt. Return the water to a boil, then turn the heat to low, cover the pot, and cook until the water is absorbed, about 15 minutes, although that will depend on your pan, the heat, and altitude. Try to resist peeking until at least 12 minutes have passed. When the rice seems done and most all of the water has been absorbed, turn off the heat and let the rice steam for 10 minutes before serving.

Tofu and Vegetable Coconut Curry

Because I’ve always found that a partial can of coconut milk or an unused block of tofu invariably spoils before it’s used, I suggest using the whole can and all the tofu to make two generous portions to eat over the course of a few days. For ease, get everything together before you start cooking. You can cook the entire dish in one 10-inch nonstick skillet. If you don’t have all those aromatic spices in your cupboard, you can make do with 2 teaspoons curry powder. Serve with brown or white rice.

1 CARTON FIRM TOFU, PACKED IN WATER

4 TEASPOONS ROASTED SESAME OIL, DIVIDED

SALT AND PEPPER

3 CARROTS, PEELED AND THINLY SLICED

3 FAT SCALLIONS, INCLUDING SOME OF THE GREEN, SLICED DIAGONALLY

1 HEAPING TABLESPOON CHOPPED GINGER

1 GARLIC CLOVE, MINCED

1 JALAPEÑO CHILE, SEEDED AND DICED

AROMATICS: 1 TEASPOON CURRY POWDER, 1⁄2 TEASPOON TURMERIC, A PINCH OF GROUND CLOVES, 1⁄8 TEASPOON GROUND CARDAMOM, AND 1 CINNAMON STICK

1 (15-OUNCE) CAN COCONUT MILK

A FEW TABLESPOONS CHOPPED CILANTRO

1 CUP FROZEN PEAS

SOY SAUCE OR TAMARI

1. Drain the tofu and cut it into 1-inch cubes. Heat a nonstick skillet, add 2 teaspoons of the oil, then the tofu. Cook over medium heat, occasionally giving the pan a shake, until the tofu is pale gold. Season it with salt and freshly ground pepper and remove it to a plate.

2. Return the pan to the stove and add the remaining oil. When it’s hot, add the carrots and stir-fry over high heat for about 2 minutes, then add the scallions, ginger, garlic, chile, all the spices, and the coconut milk. Season with 1⁄2 teaspoon salt.

3. Bring to a simmer and add the tofu, cilantro, and peas. Simmer until the tofu and peas are heated through, about 5 minutes. Taste the sauce and season with soy sauce or tamari. Serve over rice.

Skillet Cheese

Think of this as a vegetarian steak, that is, a solid piece of protein that cooks with as little fuss as its meaty equivalent. The cooked cheese holds its shape, gains a golden crust, and turns soft and irresistible. Add fragrant ground pepper and a wedge of lemon, or sprinkle it with dried oregano and red pepper flakes. Drizzle over a spoonful of salsa verde or serve with

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