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On a swing through Charleston in the late 1980s, my mission was to check out the new restaurants for Food & Wine as part of a Lowcountry feature I’d been assigned to write. At the time, the hot new restaurant was Carolina’s (it’s still there and still popular). I ordered these black-eyed pea cakes, one of the signature appetizers. They were rich enough to serve as the main course of a light lunch or supper and that’s how I prefer them today. Note: You can prepare the recipe here—my adaptation of the original—through Step 3 as much as a day ahead of time.

1 cup dried black-eyed peas, washed and sorted but not soaked

One ½-pound smoked ham hock

5 cups chicken broth

1 tablespoon butter

¼ cup minced red onion

2 large garlic cloves, minced

2 tablespoons minced red bell pepper

1 medium jalapeño pepper, stemmed, seeded, and minced

1 large egg yolk

½ cup soft white bread crumbs (about)

½ teaspoon hot red pepper sauce

2 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh coriander

½ teaspoon ground cumin

¼ teaspoon black pepper

½ cup yellow cornmeal (for dredging)

¼ cup vegetable oil (for frying)

Tomato Salsa (recipe follows)

1. Cook the black-eyed peas and ham hock in the chicken broth in a covered large, heavy saucepan over moderately low heat for 1 to 1¼ hours or until the peas are soft. Drain into a large fine sieve, reserving the ham hock and broth for soup another day. Transfer the peas to a large mixing bowl and cool to room temperature.

2. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a small, heavy skillet over moderately low heat; add the onion, garlic, bell pepper, and jalapeño, and stir-fry for 4 to 5 minutes or until limp. Add to the peas and cool.

3. Mix in the egg yolk along with the bread crumbs, hot pepper sauce, coriander, cumin, and black pepper, then mash with a potato masher. If too soft to shape, mix in a few more bread crumbs. Set uncovered in the refrigerator and let stand for at least 1 hour.

4. When ready to proceed, shape the mixture into 12 small patties measuring about 2½ inches in diameter and ½ inch thick. Dredge in the cornmeal, shaking off any excess.

5. Heat the oil in a large, heavy skillet over high heat for 1½ to 2 minutes or until ripples appear on the skillet bottom. Add half of the patties and brown 1 to 1½ minutes on each side; drain on paper toweling. Brown and drain the remaining patties the same way.

6. To serve, ladle a little of the Tomato Salsa on each of four luncheon plates, then arrange the black-eyed pea cakes artfully on top.

My mother or grandma would prepare a big pot of red beans and rice every Monday (laundry day), along with ham hocks, smoked sausages, garlic, onions and bell peppers.

—DONNA L. BRAZILE, COOKING

WITH GREASE: STIRRING THE POTS IN AMERICAN POLITICS

He likes Chevrolets and black-eyed peas, but he’s sure complex inside.

—MRS. ERSKINE CALDWELL ON HER SOUTHERN NOVELIST HUSBAND

TOMATO SALSA

MAKES ABOUT 2½ CUPS

This good all-purpose salsa is my adaptation of one served at Carolina’s Restaurant in Charleston, which appeared in an article I wrote some years ago for Food & Wine. Use it to sauce Black-Eyed Pea Cakes (recipe precedes) or in any recipe that calls for salsa. Note: Prepare the recipe a day ahead of time, if you like. Scoop the salsa into a nonreactive container, cover with plastic food wrap, and store in the refrigerator.

1 pound firm-ripe tomatoes (about 3 medium), peeled, seeded, and coarsely chopped

¼ cup finely diced red onion

2 medium scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced (include some green tops)

1 medium garlic clove, finely minced

1 small jalapeño pepper, stemmed, seeded, and minced

2 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh coriander

¾ teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon black pepper

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon cider or red wine vinegar

1. Combine all ingredients in a large nonreactive bowl. Cover and refrigerate.

2. When ready to serve, pour off all liquid, then let stand at room temperature for about 30 minutes.

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