A Love Affair With Southern Cooking_ Recipes and Recollections - Jean Anderson [113]
1908
Prohibition comes to Mississippi.
1910
Knoxville, Tennessee, stages the Appalachian Exposition with agricultural and industrial exhibits. Two pavilions salute the achievements of women and African Americans.
The Shaker settlement at Pleasant Hill, Kentucky, closes.
1911
Alabama peanut researcher George Washington Carver hosts a nine-course “peanut luncheon” at Tuskegee Institute. Among the VIP guests: Booker T. Washington.
1912
Nashville confectioner Howell Campbell creates the GooGoo Cluster, America’s first multiple-ingredient candy bar. His winning combo: milk chocolate, peanuts, caramel, and marshmallow shaped into a patty.
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RED BEANS AND RICE
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
In Louisiana, Mardi Gras means nonstop revelry that begins the weekend before Ash Wednesday and climaxes on Mardi Gras (Fat Tuesday) itself. As one Cajun told me some years ago when I was on assignment in St. Martinville, “You don’t have time to cook on Mardi Gras—you’re having too much fun. But at the same time,” she added, “you need something substantial to eat. That’s why red beans and rice are a Mardi Gras tradition. The beans can be cooked ahead of time.” Tip: I’ve discovered that the rice can also be prepared in advance: Cook it in an uncovered pan for about 20 minutes or until all the water is absorbed; the rice will be al dente. Fluff gently with a fork and cool uncovered for one hour. Spoon the rice into a plastic zipper bag and store in the refrigerator or freezer. To reheat, scoop the rice into a large fine sieve, fork lightly to separate the grains, and set over a large saucepan containing about two inches of boiling water. Tent the rice with foil and steam for 3 to 5 minutes or just until hot. Fork again lightly and serve.
1 pound dried red kidney beans, washed and sorted
8 cups (2 quarts) cold water
2 large yellow onions, coarsely chopped
1 large green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and coarsely chopped
2 large celery ribs, trimmed and finely diced (include a few leaves)
4 ounces tasso (spicy cold-smoked pork) or good country ham, finely diced
2 teaspoons salt, or to taste
¼ teaspoon ground hot red pepper (cayenne), or to taste
¼ teaspoon black pepper, or to taste
Tops of 3 large scallions, thinly sliced (green part only)
¼ cup coarsely chopped Italian parsley
2½ cups rice, cooked by package directions (see Tip on Chapter 3)
1. Soak the beans in the water overnight in a large, heavy kettle.
2. The next day, add the onions, bell pepper, celery, tasso, salt, cayenne, and black pepper to the undrained beans and bring to a boil over high heat. Adjust the heat so that the water bubbles gently, cover, and simmer for 1 hour. Uncover, reduce the heat to its lowest point, and continue simmering for 2½ to 3 hours, stirring occasionally, until the beans are soft and the mixture is as thick as chili. Note: The recipe can be prepared up to this point several days ahead of time; cover and refrigerate. About 20 minutes before serving, reheat slowly, stirring frequently, then proceed as the recipe directs.
3. Mix in the scallion tops and parsley and simmer uncovered 10 to 15 minutes more or until the flavors mellow. Taste for salt, cayenne, and black pepper and adjust as needed.
4. To serve, scoop the red beans and rice into separate heated bowls and let everyone help himself, first to the rice, then to the red beans: They should be ladled on top of the rice.
I was a great cook so I would cook for people’s parties and I’d earn $50 here and there by making platters, gumbo, beans and rice.
—DONNA L. BRAZILE, COOKING WITH GREASE: STIRRING THE POTS IN AMERICAN POLITICS
“Oh, Mr. Martin,” I said…“I never had pork in my life.” And why wouldn’t it be good? It had fed on biddy-mash and skimmed milk and fluffy-ruffle petunias.
—MARJORIE KINNAN RAWLINGS, CROSS CREEK
Sides and Salads
My brother never did take to southern food the way I did, especially when it came to vegetables. Complaining that everything was cooked with fatback or salt pork, he preferred the butter-and-cream–seasoned