Amsterdam (Rough Guide) - Martin Dunford [135]
Pakhuis Wilhelmina Veemkade 576 (Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklands) 020/419 3368, www.cafepakhuiswilhelmina.nl. Tucked away in an old warehouse, this underground venue hosts everything from jazz to pop, funk, punk and folk with live gigs and DJs from Thursday to Sunday.
Skek Zeedijk 4 (Old Centre) 020/427 0551, www.skek.nl. Frequent performances from Thursday to Sunday by singer-songwriters, hip-hop, rock and jazz acts in this pleasant eetcafé run by students.
Tropentheater Linnaeusstraat 2 (Amsterdam Oost) 020/568 8500, www.tropentheater.nl. Tram #9 from CS, or #10 from Leidseplein. Part of the Royal Tropeninstituut, east of Artis Zoo, this formal theatre specializes in non-Western drama, dance, film and music. A great place to take in live acts that you wouldn’t normally get to see.
The Waterhole Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 49 (Grachtengordel south) 020/620 8904, www.thewaterhole.nl. Late-night bar with live music every night, ranging from punk and rock to jazz and blues. Popular for its regular Monday jam sessions, which attract a raucous but friendly crowd, and for its pool table and cheap beer. Sunday night is ladies’ night, with half-price drinks.
Winston International Warmoesstraat 123 (Old Centre) 020/623 1380, www.winston.nl. Part of the arty Winston Hotel, this adventurous small venue attracts an eclectic crowd and offers a mix of live bands, electro, drum ’n’ bass and cheesy pop nights.
Entertainment and nightlife |
Jazz and Latin
For jazz fans, Amsterdam can be a treat. Ever since the 1940s and 1950s, when American jazz musicians began moving to Europe, the city has had a soft spot for jazz. Paris stole much of the limelight, but Chet Baker lived and died in Amsterdam, and he and any number of legendary jazzbos could once be found jamming into the small hours at Casablanca on Zeedijk. Venues have changed a lot since then, varying from tiny bars staging everything from Dixieland to avant-garde, to the large, modern Bimhuis – the city’s major jazz venue – which plays host to both international names and home-grown talent. Pianist Michiel Borstlap, cellist Ernst Reijseger and sought-after percussionist Han Bennink – member of the acclaimed contemporary jazz collective, ICP – are among the Dutch musicians you might come across, and they’re well worth catching if you get the chance.
The jazz season runs from September to July, with concerts and festivals held all over the country. The Netherlands boasts one of the best jazz festivals in the world, the North Sea Jazz Festival, held in July at the Ahoy in Rotterdam. Comprising three days and nights of continuous jazz on fourteen stages, the event involves around 1200 musicians, among them world-class performers, from Oscar Peterson to Guru’s Jazzmatazz. Tickets cost from about €75 a day, with supplements for the big names. Information on the event is available from 015/214 8393, www.northseajazz.com.
The Dutch connection with Surinam – a former colony tucked in between Venezuela and Brazil – means that there’s a sizeable Latin American community in the city, and plenty of authentic salsa and other Latin sounds to be discovered; the best venue for this type of music is Akhnaton, while the Melkweg and Paradiso put on occasional salsa nights.
Entertainment and nightlife | Jazz and Latin |
Venues
Akhnaton This crowded, lively venue is your best bet for Latin music.
Bimhuis Piet Heinkade 3 (Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklands) 020/788 2150, www.bimhuis.nl. The city’s premier jazz and improvised music venue is located right next to the Muziekgebouw, beside the River IJ to the east of Centraal Station. The Bimhuis showcases gigs from Dutch and international artists throughout the week, as well as jam sessions and workshops. There’s also a bar and restaurant for concertgoers with pleasant views over the river.
Bourbon Street Leidsekruisstraat 6 (Grachtengordel south) 020/623 3440, www.bourbonstreet.nl. Friendly bar with a relaxed atmosphere and quality blues and jazz nightly, Mon–Thurs & Sun until