Amsterdam (Rough Guide) - Martin Dunford [136]
Café Alto Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 115 (Grachtengordel south) 020/626 3249, www.jazz-cafe-alto.nl. It’s worth hunting out this legendary little jazz bar just off Leidseplein for the quality modern jazz every night from 9pm until 3am (and often much later). Though slightly cramped, it’s big on atmosphere. Entry is free, and you don’t have to buy a beer to hang out and watch the band.
Casablanca Zeedijk 26 (Old Centre) 020/625 5685, www.casablanca-amsterdam.nl. Though a shadow of its former self, Casablanca still hosts live jazz most nights of the week, when it’s not putting on variety and cabaret shows. Check website for programme details.
De Engelbewaarder Kloveniersburgwal 59 (Old Centre) 020/625 3772. Comfy old bar with excellent live jazz sessions Sunday afternoons 4–7pm.
Entertainment and nightlife |
Classical and opera
There’s no shortage of classical music concerts in Amsterdam, with two major orchestras based in the city, plus regular visits by other Dutch ensembles. The Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra remains one of the most dynamic in the world, and occupies one of the finest concert halls to boot. The other resident orchestra is the Netherlands Philharmonic, also based in the Concertgebouw, which has a wide symphonic repertoire and also performs with the Netherlands Opera at the Muziektheater. Among visiting orchestras, the Rotterdam Philharmonic has a world-class reputation, as does the Radio Philharmonic Orchestra, based in Hilversum outside Amsterdam.
As well as the main concert halls, a number of Amsterdam’s churches (and former churches) host regular performances of classical and chamber music – both types of venue are listed here. Others, including the Nieuwe Kerk on Dam Square, the Westerkerk, the Noorderkerk, the Mozes en Aaronkerk on Waterlooplein, and the tiny Amstelkerk on Kerkstraat, occasionally put on one-off concerts, often at very reasonable prices (check with venues for programme details).
The most prestigious venue for opera is the Muziektheater (otherwise known as the “Stopera”) on Waterlooplein, which is home to the Netherlands Opera company as well as the Dutch National Ballet. Visiting companies sometimes perform here, but more often at the Stadsschouwburg or the Carré Theater.
Tickets are excellent value and aren’t as exclusively priced as some European cities, starting from as little as €7.50 for matinee concerts, and rising to €70 for big-name performers.
As far as contemporary classical music goes, the Muziekgebouw, overlooking the River IJ, is the city’s leading showcase for musicians from all over the world. Local talent is headed by the Asko and Schoenberg ensembles, as well as the Nieuw Ensemble and the Volharding Orchestra. Look out also for Willem Breuker and Maarten Altena, two popular musicians who successfully combine improvised jazz with composed, contemporary classical music.
Entertainment and nightlife |
Classical music festivals
By far the most prestigious multi-venue Dutch festival for contemporary classical music is the annual Holland Festival (www.hollandfestival.nl) in June, which attracts the best of the country’s mainstream and fringe performers in all areas of the arts, as well as an exciting international line-up. Otherwise, one of the more interesting, music-oriented events is the popular Grachtenfestival, held at the end of August, a week-long classical music festival (www.grachtenfestival.nl), which concludes with a piano recital on a floating stage outside the Pulitzer Hotel on the Prinsengracht – with the whole area floodlit and filled with small boats; this can be a wonderfully atmospheric evening. Also around this time – and from two ends of the musical spectrum – Utrecht plays host to the internationally renowned Early Music Festival (www.oudemuziek.nl), while in early September, Amsterdam holds the International Gaudeamus Music Week (www.gaudeamus.nl), a forum for debate and premiere performances of cutting-edge contemporary music.
Entertainment and nightlife | Classical music festivals |
Venues