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By Root 367 0

of Gujarat. It is brought to the table in a large serving bowl. The eldest lady of the house then asks how many people want their soup flavored with lemon, and she squeezes fresh lemon over one section, leaving the rest plain. Next, she ladles the soup into small Chinese-style bowls, the lemony part of the soup going to those who asked for it. The white color comes from the milk and almonds (or cashews, if you like).

4 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped

A piece of fresh ginger, about ½-inch cube

1½ pounds neck of lamb, with bone left in, cut into 1–1½-inch cubes

1 medium-sized onion, finely chopped

4 cups beef broth (canned or fresh; do not use bouillon)

½ teaspoon salt (more if beef broth is unsalted)

1 bay leaf

1 tablespoon blanched slivered almonds (or unroasted cashews)

1 cup milk

4 tablespoons whole-wheat flour (use plain flour as substitute)

⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper (optional)

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

⅛ teaspoon whole cumin seeds

GARNISH

2 tablespoons fresh mint leaves, chopped (parsley may be substituted)

1 lemon cut into 6 wedges

Put the garlic and ginger into the container of an electric blender, along with ¼ cup water. Blend at high speed until you have a smooth paste.

In a largish pot, combine the meat, chopped onions, garlic and ginger paste, beef broth, salt, and bay leaf. Bring to a boil. Cover, and simmer gently for 1½ hours.

Meanwhile, soak the blanched almonds in the milk.

In a small, heavy-bottomed skillet, dry-roast the whole-wheat flour over a medium flame, stirring constantly until the flour is 2 or 3 shades darker (this should take about 3 minutes). Then turn off flame and pour flour into a medium-sized bowl.

When the soup has cooked for an hour and a half, take out a cup of the boiling liquid and mix it well with the roasted whole-wheat flour in the bowl. When the mixture is smooth, pour it back into the pot of soup.

Put the milk and almonds into the blender and blend at high speed until you have a thin, smooth paste. Add to the simmering soup.

Taste the soup. Add cayenne if you desire.

Heat the oil in a small skillet over a medium flame. When hot, put in the whole cumin seeds, stirring for a few seconds until seeds begin to pop and darken, then add to the soup. Stir soup again. Turn off heat and leave soup covered.

To serve: This soup can be served with or without the pieces of meat (remove bay leaf though!). Garnish with chopped mint leaves and serve lemon wedges on the side.

Dal soup

SERVES 8

My mother used to make this mild-flavored “split-pea” soup. The only spices in it were cloves, peppercorns, and turmeric. It was served with lemon wedges and homemade croutons.

1½ cups green or yellow split peas, washed

6 cups chicken broth (canned or homemade)

24 black peppercorns*

15 whole cloves*

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

½–¾ teaspoon salt (more if broth is unsalted)

* tied in cheesecloth

GARNISH

8 lemon wedges

Croutons made from 6 slices of slightly stale bread and enough

vegetable oil to cover ½–¾ inch in a 10-inch skillet

Combine the split peas and chicken broth in a pot and bring to a boil. Remove scum from the top.

Add the spices in the cheesecloth, the turmeric, and the salt. Cover, lower heat, and simmer gently for 1 to 1½ hours or until peas are tender. Remove cheesecloth from soup, squeeze its juices into soup, and discard. Check salt.

Press the soup through a strainer, using the back of a wooden spoon, or put it through a food mill. If the soup seems too thick, add a little water.

To serve: Heat soup. Serve in bowls, garnished with a lemon wedge. Pass around croutons on the side.

TO MAKE CROUTONS

(These can be prepared ahead of time.)

Remove crusts and cut slices of bread into ½-inch cubes.

Heat oil in skillet over medium flame, and put in a third of the croutons. Fry for 3 or 4 minutes, turning them around, until they are golden brown. Lift out with slotted spoon and leave to drain on paper towels. Prepare the rest of the croutons in two more batches, and leave to drain.

Potato soup

SERVES 4

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

A pinch