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¼ teaspoon whole cumin seeds

2 medium-sized potatoes, peeled and quartered

2 tablespoons tomato paste

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

1¼ teaspoons salt

⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper (optional)

Heat the oil in a 3-quart pot over a medium flame, put in the asafetida and the cumin, and stir once. In a few seconds, when the cumin seeds begin to sizzle, add the quartered potatoes, tomato paste, turmeric, salt, and cayenne. Stir, and continue to fry for 2 minutes.

Add 4 cups of water and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer gently for 45 minutes.

Turn off heat and lift cover. Mash potatoes coarsely with a potato masher or with the back of a slotted spoon.

To serve: Pour soup into small bowls or katoris and serve.

Cold yogurt soup

SERVES 4

Here is a very refreshing summer soup.

1 cup plain yogurt

½ cup heavy cream

⅓–½ teaspoon salt

A sprinkling of freshly ground black pepper

4 tablespoons peeled and grated cucumber

10–12 fresh mint leaves, finely chopped

Combine all ingredients in bowl with ½ cup of cold water. Mix well. Cover and chill for several hours until ready to serve.

To serve: Serve on hot days in small chilled bowls or katoris.

Khatte aloo (sour potatoes)

SERVES 10–12

This is an adaptation of a street-side snack to be found in different forms all over North India.

7 medium-sized potatoes, boiled ahead of time, and set aside for at least 2 hours to cool

1½ teaspoons salt (or to taste)

2–3 tablespoons lemon juice (or to taste)

2 teaspoons ground roasted cumin

¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper

¼–½ teaspoon cayenne pepper

2 tablespoons finely chopped Chinese parsley (coriander greens or cilantro)

Peel the cooled potatoes and dice them into ½-inch cubes. Place in large bowl. Add remaining ingredients. Mix well. Check to see if salt and lemon juice are in correct proportion.

To serve: Place potatoes on platter and stick with toothpicks. Serve with drinks.

Vegetable pakoris

SERVES 6–8

These pakoris are vegetable fritters—something like an Indian tempura. They are generally eaten with tea, but there is no reason why they cannot be served with drinks. I have specified potatoes in this recipe, but you could use any of the following instead:

1-inch flowerets of cauliflower (a small head),

or 1⁄16-inch-thick onion rings (4 medium-sized onions),

or Italian peppers, cut in half lengthwise (½–¾ pound)

You can also make a plate of mixed pakoris, using different vegetables.

THE BATTER

1 cup chickpea flour, sifted

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

¼ teaspoon ground cumin

¼ teaspoon baking soda

⅛ teaspoon freshly ground pepper

⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper (optional)

THE FILLING

3 medium-sized potatoes, peeled (or other vegetables—see above)

Vegetable oil, enough for 2½–3 inches in wok, karhai, or other utensil for deep frying

Salt and pepper for sprinkling on cooked pakoris

Put the chickpea flour in a bowl. Gradually mix in about ¾ cup water, until you have a thickish batter—thick enough to coat the vegetables. Add the other batter ingredients and mix well.

Cut the potatoes into rounds 1⁄16 inch thick, and put into a bowl of cold water.

Heat oil over a low flame until hot but not smoking. Take a few potato slices at a time, wipe them dry, and dip them in the batter. Now drop them into the oil. Fry slowly, 7 to 10 minutes on each side, until they are cooked through and have turned a golden brown. Remove with slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Do all pakoris this way, never putting in more at one time than your deep-frying utensil will hold in one layer.

To serve: Serve pakoris while they are crisp and hot with either the Fresh Green Chutney with Chinese Parsley and Yogurt or Fresh Mint Chutney with Fruit. The chutney is used as a dip. If you’re feeling lazy, tomato ketchup or Chinese duck sauce or a combination of soy sauce, white vinegar, grated fresh ginger, and a dash of Tabasco can be used as alternative dips.

Pappadums, or papars

SERVES 8–10

Pappadums