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By Root 357 0

(as they are called in the South) and papars (as they are called in the North) are wafers, usually made out of a dal dough which is rolled out and dried. (You can also buy sago wafers and potato wafers, but they are less popular.) Papars can be bought in specialty stores in two basic varieties—spiced and unspiced. The spiced ones often have a liberal sprinkling of crushed black pepper in them. They are deep-fried in hot oil and served at cocktail parties. The frying takes just a few seconds. Papars cannot be fried too far in advance, as any moisture in the air tends to make them go limp and they should be crisp. Papars come in several sizes. The large ones can be broken in half and then fried. They expand a bit as they are cooked. Before you set out to make them, put a large platter, well lined with paper towels, beside the stove to drain the papars.

10 papars or pappadums

Oil for deep-frying, enough for 2 inches in 10-inch skillet

Heat oil in skillet over medium flame. When hot, put in one papar. It should sizzle and expand immediately. (If it doesn’t, your oil is not hot enough!) Turn it over, leave for a few seconds, and remove with slotted spoon. Place on platter with paper towels and drain. Do all papars this way, one at a time. If they begin to brown, your oil is too hot. Turn down the heat. The papars should retain their yellow color.

To serve: Serve warm or at room temperature with drinks.

Seekh kabab, flat style

SERVES 8–10

This version of the ground meat kabab is excellent to serve with drinks and to take out on picnics. The meat and spices can be combined a night in advance and left, covered, in the refrigerator.

½ medium-sized onion, peeled and chopped

4 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped

A piece of fresh ginger, about 1-inch cube, peeled and chopped

20 whole black peppercorns

10 whole cloves

Seeds from 8 cardamom pods

1 fresh hot green chili, sliced (optional)

½ teaspoon ground nutmeg

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

3 tablespoons lemon juice

4 tablespoons chick pea flour

2½ pounds chuck, ground three times

1 cup (loosely packed) chopped Chinese parsley (coriander greens or cilantro)

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1½ teaspoons salt

½ teaspoon cayenne pepper (optional—use as desired)

1 egg, beaten

5 tablespoons melted butter

In the container of an electric blender, combine the chopped onions, garlic, ginger, peppercorns, cloves, cardamom seeds, green chili, nutmeg, cinnamon, and lemon juice. Blend at high speed until you have a smooth paste.

Heat a small iron skillet or griddle over medium flame. Put in the chickpea flour and stir until it is 2 or 3 shades darker. Remove from heat.

In a large bowl, combine the meat, the chopped parsley, the contents of the blender container, the cumin, coriander, salt, cayenne, and roasted chickpea flour. Mix well with your hands. Cover and refrigerate until ready to broil (overnight if convenient).

Take meat out of refrigerator 45 minutes before serving.

Preheat broiler.

Add beaten egg to meat and mix well.

Line 10-by-15-inch baking tray with foil, and brush it with half the melted butter.

Spread the meat mixture in the tray: it should be ⅓ to ½ inch thick. Brush the top with the rest of the melted butter. Place under broiler, 3 to 4 inches away from heat. Broil until golden brown, about 15 to 20 minutes. Remove with a bulb baster any liquid that may accumulate.

Cut meat into 1½–2-inch squares.

Serve hot, or cold, with Raw Onion Rings and Fresh Green Chutney with Chinese Parsley and Yogurt or Fresh Mint Chutney with Fruit.

Leftover ham on toast

SERVES 8–10

This dish of my own devising can be made with any leftover roasts. I have used ham, but you could use lamb or beef or pork, in which case salt should be added.

2 cups (well packed) diced cooked ham

1 medium-sized potato, boiled, peeled, and diced

½ medium-sized onion, peeled and chopped

1 teaspoon fresh ginger, peeled and grated

2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped finely

½ cup washed Chinese parsley (coriander greens or cilantro)

⅛ teaspoon freshly ground