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Ancient Grains for Modern Meals - Maria Speck [58]

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or use a broiler anytime. Pecorino Romano can stand in for the haloumi but it lacks the same lip-smacking chewiness. Both cheeses can be quite salty, so you may want to go easy when adding the salt. SERVES 4 TO 6

RYE

1½ cups water

¾ cup rye berries, soaked overnight and drained

SALAD

2 medium leeks, cleaned and cut into ¾-inch segments (about 4 cups)

½ cup low-sodium chicken broth or vegetable broth

1 (2- by 1-inch) strip orange zest, white pith removed (optional)

¼ cup chopped oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, drained, 2 teaspoons oil reserved

¼ cup chopped fresh mint, plus 2 tablespoons for garnish

2 tablespoons nonpareil capers

¾ teaspoon fennel seeds

¼ teaspoon fine sea salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

TO FINISH

¼ pound haloumi cheese

1½ teaspoons dried crumbled oregano or thyme

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/8 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes (optional)

1 To prepare the rye, bring the water and the rye berries to a boil in a small heavy-bottomed saucepan. Decrease the heat to maintain a simmer, cover, and cook until the berries are tender but still slightly chewy, 50 to 60 minutes. Remove from the heat, cover, and steam for 10 to 15 minutes if you have time. Drain any remaining liquid and transfer to a large serving bowl to cool.

2 While the rye cools, prepare the salad. Bring the leeks, chicken broth, and orange zest to a boil in a large saucepan. Decrease the heat to maintain a simmer, cover, and cook until the leeks are soft, 5 to 7 minutes. Drain the leeks, and add them to the serving bowl with the rye berries. Add the sun-dried tomatoes, ¼ cup of the mint, and the capers, fennel seeds, salt, and pepper. Taste and adjust the seasoning, keeping in mind that capers and haloumi are quite salty.

3 To finish, position a rack about 6 inches below the heat source and preheat the broiler. Cut the haloumi cheese into thin slices, about ¼ inch thick, and put them on a plate. Sprinkle with the oregano, pepper, pepper flakes, and reserved 2 teaspoons of tomato oil; rub the oil and spices all over to coat the slices on both sides (work gently, as haloumi breaks easily). Transfer the cheese to a medium cast-iron skillet or a broiler pan.

4 Broil the haloumi until the slices just start to brown at the edges, about 5 minutes, turning once with a spatula. (Watch closely as you don’t want the cheese to dry out.)

5 Top the salad with the haloumi. Sprinkle with the remaining 2 tablespoons mint, and serve right away.

TO GET A HEAD START: Make the rye berries, as in step 1, ahead. The salad (without the haloumi) can be prepared 4 to 6 hours ahead. Chill, covered. Bring to room temperature before serving.

TO VARY IT: A great stand-in for the rye in this dish would be about 2 cups cooked whole oat berries (see cooking instructions).

Summer Tabouli with Farro

Mild-tasting farro, an ancient wheat variety, stands in for bulgur in this refreshing tabouli, a riff on the classic Middle Eastern salad (for more on varieties of farro).

Be sure to choose sweet vine-ripened tomatoes from a farmers’ market or your garden. Like my Greek mom, I chop the parsley quite coarsely—it adds a nice rustic touch. Bring this to a summer barbecue, where you can pair it with grilled fish drizzled with lemon juice, or with beef kebabs. For a simple vegetarian meal, top the tabouli with a handful of good-quality feta or Greek manouri cheese. SERVES 4 TO 6

FARRO

2 cups water

1 cup farro

2-inch sprig rosemary, or ½ teaspoon dried (optional)

TABOULI, AND TO FINISH

2 cups coarsely chopped tomatoes (¾ pound)

1 cup loosely packed chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves

½ cup finely chopped red onion

¾ teaspoon minced hot green chile (optional)

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

¾ teaspoon fine sea salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 To prepare the farro, bring the water, farro, and rosemary to a boil in a small heavy-bottomed saucepan. Decrease the heat to maintain a simmer, cover, and cook until the farro

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