Ancient Grains for Modern Meals - Maria Speck [59]
2 Once the farro has cooled, make the tabouli by adding the tomatoes, parsley, onion, and chile to the serving bowl. In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, lemon juice, vinegar, salt, and pepper. Taste and adjust the seasoning.
3 To finish, pour the dressing over the tabouli and toss to combine. Set aside for 10 minutes for the flavors to mingle, and serve.
TO GET A HEAD START: Make the farro, as in step 1, ahead.
Cumin-Scented Quinoa with Red Beets
The sweet crunchiness and superb simplicity of raw shredded beets are overlooked and underrated. I think they are a delicacy. Combine this humble root vegetable with ancient quinoa and wait for these two earthy flavors to merge into a divine union. I like to blend red beets into burgundy-colored quinoa for a stunning crimson-colored side. On hot days, add a dollop of sumac-spiced yogurt and serve with chicken, lamb, or pork, or with an oil-rich fish such as pan-fried or grilled bluefish. To save time on dish duty, I use the large holes of a box grater and my muscles to shred raw beets (beware of splatters!), but feel free to use a food processor fitted with a shredding disk. And no, I never wear gloves. The red beet stains wash off easily, plus they show that I love to cook.
If you don’t have whole cumin seeds at home, in step 1 add 1 teaspoon ground cumin together with the quinoa to the saucepan and cook, stirring, until the quinoa is hot to the touch, about 1 minute. Then proceed as directed. SERVES 4
QUINOA
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon whole cumin seeds
1 cup red quinoa, well rinsed and drained
1¾ cups water
¾ teaspoon fine sea salt
½ teaspoon sumac (optional; see sidebar)
SUMAC YOGURT TOPPING, AND TO FINISH
1 cup plain whole-milk yogurt
1 clove garlic, minced
½ teaspoon sumac, for sprinkling, or 1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
1¼ cups shredded raw red beet (about 1 medium-sized beet, rinsed and peeled)
1 to 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 or 2 pinches of cayenne pepper (optional)
1 Heat the olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat until shimmering. Add the cumin seeds (they will sizzle) and cook, stirring, until the seeds darken and become fragrant, 30 seconds. Stir in the quinoa (it may splatter!) and cook, stirring frequently, until hot to the touch, about 1 minute. Add the water, salt, and sumac and bring to a boil. Decrease the temperature to maintain a simmer, cover, and cook until the liquid is absorbed, 15 to 20 minutes.
2 Meanwhile, make the sumac yogurt topping. Beat the yogurt and the garlic in a small bowl with a fork until smooth. Sprinkle with sumac and set aside.
3 To finish, remove the saucepan from the heat. Stir in the shredded beet, cover, and steam for 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in 1 tablespoon lemon juice and a pinch or two of cayenne. Taste, adjusting for salt and lemon juice, and serve with the yogurt topping.
TO VARY IT: White quinoa and golden beets combine for an equally attractive preparation.
SUMAC
Sumac is a dark red powder made from the crushed dried berries of a small Mediterranean tree. Widely used across the Middle East for centuries, it gives a sharp acidic kick to salads and roasted meats or fish. You can sprinkle sumac on top of hummus, or flavor rice with it. Its amazing, complex flavor contributes not only tanginess, but also sweet and bitter notes.
Warm Oat Berries with Walnuts and Gorgonzola
Most of us think of oats as a breakfast food. Try this side and think again—it will steal the limelight from trendy farro in an instant. Whole oat berries have a pleasing chew and an ever-so-slight toasty sweetness, inviting this pairing with pan-roasted walnuts and just-melted Gorgonzola cheese. Serve next to grilled or pan-fried steak and tuna, or offer it with simple sautéed greens such as spinach or chard. SERVES 4 TO 6
OATS
1¼ cups water
1 cup whole oat berries (oat groats)
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