Ancient Grains for Modern Meals - Maria Speck [8]
I have included a number of seeds such as amaranth, buckwheat, or quinoa that are commonly referred to as “pseudograins” or “pseudocereals,” as they have a nutritional value similar to and are eaten like grains. Then there are staples such as couscous and bulgur, which are derived from grains but are not technically grains themselves.
This section also includes information on the varying temperaments of the whole grain flours used in this book. As you start using them in baking, this information will give you a better understanding of their different characters and qualities. Flour is not a consistent product. Its texture depends, for example, on the mill it was ground in, or the fineness of the grind. These differences affect the outcome of your baked goods. Try different brands of whole grain flours and see if you have a preference.
Last but not least, I provide guidance for when you shop. I have done this for a few select grains and flours that might cause confusion (or a headache, depending on your perspective) when you look for them in the grocery store, or when you cook them at home. But don’t despair. There is nothing mysterious about whole grains, and you will soon become an expert.
AMARANTH
AMARANTH
Minuscule amaranth is a nutritional powerhouse. It is often referred to as a pseudocereal because it is not part of the same plant family as so-called true cereals such as wheat or oats. A staple of the Aztecs, it has been cultivated in Central America for an estimated five thousand to eight thousand years. It is considered a “super grain” because its seeds contain all of the essential amino acids, providing high-quality protein.
Amaranth’s tiny seeds, as small as poppy seeds, are part of a tall plant of which there are about sixty different species. The name amaranth stems from the Greek amaranthos, “one who does not wither.” Most amaranth varieties grow as an annual weed, commonly known as pigweed. Certain kinds are cherished for their delicious dark green leaves. These amaranth greens, also called Chinese spinach, are part of the diet in Africa, Indonesia, China, and Greece.
The grain amaranth is high in minerals such as calcium and iron and has a subtle grassy flavor that some call earthy. Others detect a lively pepperiness. In many parts of South America, it is sold popped like corn rather than as a cooked grain. In parts of India, the popped grains are eaten in a traditional energy-rich sweet called laddu. Amaranth is gluten-free.
AMARANTH FLOUR Whole grain amaranth flour has a delicious concentrated nuttiness. But it is also an unusual flour, to say the least. Some say it makes baked goods gummy. I prefer to say that amaranth flour can yield intensely dense textures, and that only with trial and error will you learn how to compensate for this characteristic. Try the Amaranth-Walnut Cookies with Brandy and judge for yourself. To get there, I baked a truckload of cookies, but it was well worth it—and the botched creations were almost as good.
BARLEY
Barley was likely the most important grain of ancient civilizations, from the Chinese to the Egyptians, from the Greeks to the Romans. Celebrated in Homer’s Iliad, it was cultivated as early as 8000 BC. Pliny (AD 23–79) called barley “the oldest of food” and describes a common barley mush. Hippocrates praised the grain’s healthful properties—in times of illness, he prescribed a diet of cereals and breads made solely from barley.
Highly adaptable, barley can grow from the hot, dry plains of northern India to the Arctic Circle, from Ethiopia to South America. So