Ancient Grains for Modern Meals - Maria Speck [9]
Barley has a faint earthy aroma, slightly sweet, and stands out among grains for its low glycemic index. Of all the whole grains, barley has the highest fiber content. It contains high levels of the soluble fiber beta-glucan, which can reduce cholesterol and help control blood sugar.
BARLEY FLOUR Barley flour adds delicious character to baked goods. It has a mild sweetness; some detect a hint of maltiness. I always use whole grain barley flour, which should be noted on the package. You can use barley flour in many recipes. However, since barley is low in gluten, it cannot stand in for wheat flour on a one-to-one basis. It is best not to replace more than about a third of your flour with nutty-sweet barley flour, otherwise your baked goods will not rise well.
WHEN YOU SHOP Pearl (or pearled) barley is the processed version of whole grain (hulled) barley, as the germ and much of the bran have been removed. I have used it in a few recipes in this book despite the fact that is not a whole grain. For one, it is a great introduction to the distinct flavor and character of barley. In addition, unlike most grains, barley’s fiber is not concentrated in the outer bran but distributed throughout the kernel, so refined barley still adds nutritional benefits to your plate. According to the National Barley Foods Council, even heavily pearled barley typically retains at least 8 percent fiber. Look for pearl barley in the Latino sections of supermarkets, where it is often sold in a less refined form. Here is how you can tell: The more the grain kernels are coated with darker skin patches from the bran, the better. The reverse is also true: the whiter the grain looks, the more polished it probably is.
BUCKWHEAT
Buckwheat, despite its name, is not related to wheat. Technically, it is not a grain, but yet another pseudocereal from a herbaceous plant belonging to the rhubarb and sorrel family. First documented in China and Japan, where it is believed to have originated, the staple was brought to the United States by early European settlers. Its name is derived from the Dutch bockweit, literally, “beechwheat,” and refers to beechnuts, which are larger but have a similar triangular shape (see also “Buckwheat: Bold and Almost Instant”).
Buckwheat grows in poor soil conditions, which makes it ideally suited to cold climates. Thus, in eastern Europe and Russia, the cereal has been a staple for centuries. In English, the term kasha often refers to buckwheat, while in Slavic languages the term includes any porridge also made from wheat, barley, or rye. Japan also has a long history of eating buckwheat as porridge or dumplings. Highly esteemed soba noodles, made from buckwheat flour, date back to the seventeenth century and are a fairly recent addition to the Japanese diet.
Gluten-free buckwheat kernels (or groats) stand out for their high levels of rutin, an antioxidant that can improve blood circulation. When shopping for buckwheat, you have two options: already roasted kasha, which is brownish red in color and has an assertive earthy flavor; or grayish green raw buckwheat groats, which are milder and therefore a more appealing introduction. White-blooming buckwheat is attractive to bees and makes for an intensely aromatic dark-colored honey.
BULGUR
Bulgur (also bulgar, or burghul) is a godsend for busy cooks. You could call it the perfect ancient fast food—it transforms slow-cooking whole wheat into a quick everyday staple. In a traditional technique used for centuries,