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PASTA

Fine sea salt

½ pound whole wheat spaghetti

RADICCHIO MUSHROOM MIXTURE

¾ pound cremini mushrooms, or a mixture of cremini and shiitake mushrooms

2 ounces smoked bacon, chopped into ¼-inch pieces (about ½ cup)

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra as needed

1 shallot, thinly sliced (about ¼ cup)

½ teaspoon fine sea salt

1 small head radicchio, quartered and sliced ¼ inch wide (about ½ pound)

1 clove garlic, minced

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ cup finely grated Parmesan cheese (1 ounce), plus extra for serving

1 Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Add salt as you see fit and then the pasta, stirring a few times. Return to a boil with the lid on; uncover and cook at a gentle boil until the pasta is just short of al dente, according to the package directions.

2 While the water is coming to a boil, cut the cremini mushrooms in half if large, and slice ¼ inch thick. Remove and discard the shiitake mushroom stems. Cut the caps in half if large, and slice ¼ inch thick.

3 Cook the bacon in a heavy-bottomed 12-inch skillet over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned and crisp, about 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat, but leave the bacon in the pan. Add a bit more olive oil to the rendered fat if needed so that you have about 2 tablespoons fat (or drain the bacon fat and use olive oil only).

4 While the pasta is cooking, prepare the radicchio mushroom mixture. Return the same skillet to the burner and heat over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms, shallots, and ¼ teaspoon of the salt. Cook, stirring frequently, until the liquid of the mushrooms evaporates and the shallots start to caramelize, about 5 minutes. Add the radicchio and garlic and cook, stirring, until the radicchio shrivels and turns dark auburn, 2 to 3 minutes. Decrease the heat to medium if the radicchio or the garlic starts to burn. Season with the pepper and the remaining ¼ teaspoon salt. Remove the pan from the heat if the pasta is not ready. Taste for salt and pepper and adjust (I like this quite peppery), but keep in mind that you will still add salty Parmesan cheese.

5 To finish, drain the pasta (but do not shake off the water), reserving ¾ cup of the cooking liquid. Return the skillet to the burner, add the pasta and a scant ½ cup of the reserved cooking liquid, and return to a boil over medium heat. Add the cheese and cook, tossing vigorously and adding a bit more of the cooking liquid if needed, until the pasta is nicely moistened, 1 to 2 minutes. Toss with 1 tablespoon olive oil and serve at once, passing more Parmesan.

TO MAKE IT VEGETARIAN: Omit the bacon and season the vegetables in step 4 with a dash of soy sauce (omitting the additional salt).

Rustic Linguine with Summer Herbs and Olives

When it comes to the use of fresh herbs, my mom shows no restraint. In fact, she uses them by the fistful unlike anyone I know. I envy the skill with which she puts together her improvised garden blends—this pasta is inspired by her passion. Oil allows the flavors to blossom here, so use the best-quality olive oil you can afford. If you like, shave a bit of Parmesan or Pecorino Romano cheese on top. Accompany with your favorite salad greens or with a plate of vine-ripened tomatoes, salted a bit to release their juices and drizzled with olive oil for good measure. And if you are in a leisurely mood, you can make your own linguine (as suggested in the recipe for Homemade Spelt Fettuccine). SERVES 4

HERB AND OLIVE MIXTURE

1 cup Kalamata or other good-quality black olives, pitted and coarsely chopped

½ cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

½ cup finely chopped fresh mint

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh thyme

2 tablespoons drained nonpareil capers

1 to 2 cloves garlic, minced

1 teaspoon minced fresh red Thai chile (optional)

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Fine sea salt

PASTA

Fine sea salt

¾ pound whole wheat linguine or spaghetti

1 First, prepare the herb and olive mixture. Place the olives, herbs, capers, garlic,