Ancient Grains for Modern Meals - Maria Speck [91]
2 Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Add salt as you see fit and then the pasta, stirring a few times. Return to a boil with the lid on; uncover and cook at a gentle boil until the pasta is al dente, according to the package directions.
3 To finish, drain the pasta and return it to the pot or to a large serving bowl, reserving ½ cup of the cooking liquid. Add the herb and olive mixture together with a scant ¼ cup of the reserved cooking liquid. Toss vigorously to combine for about 1 minute, adding a tad more cooking liquid to loosen the pasta as needed. Serve at once.
TO GET A HEAD START: The herb and olive mixture, as in step 1, can be prepared 1 day ahead. Chill, covered. Remove it from the fridge when you start to boil the pasta water to take the chill out. I normally don’t buy already pitted olives as the pit helps them retain flavor, but if you’re in a hurry, please do.
TO LIGHTEN IT UP: You can reduce the amount of olive oil to 2 tablespoons and increase the pasta liquid a bit. But I am a believer in the transformative power of olive oil. So when I feel a need for restraint, I eat a little less pasta—and more salad—rather than cut back on the delicious and satisfying aroma of olive oil.
Spicy Spaghetti with Caramelized Onions, Anchovies, and Tuna
This pasta is one of my pantry-staple favorites. A great last-minute dish, it comes together in the time it takes the pasta to cook. Sweet caramelized onions and tuna balance the salty anchovies and briny capers, a simple everyday feast and a beautiful flavor match for hearty whole wheat pasta. Don’t hesitate to use pungent anchovies—they add intense savory richness, and finicky eaters won’t be able to see them as they melt into the sauce. I use tuna only as an accent here. By all means, open two cans if you like more fish on your fork. I prefer oil-packed to water-packed tuna for its richer flavor, and—naturally for a transplant from Greece—I always reach for fish packed in olive oil. SERVES 4
PASTA
Fine sea salt
¾ pound whole wheat spaghetti
CARAMELIZED ONIONS AND TUNA
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 (2-ounce) can oil-packed anchovy fillets, drained, 1 tablespoon of the oil reserved, fillets chopped (about 2½ tablespoons)
1 pound red onions (about 2 medium), thinly sliced into rings
¼ teaspoon fine sea salt
1 cup chopped green onions (about 7), dark green parts reserved and chopped finely
2 cloves garlic, sliced
¼ to ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 (6-ounce) can oil-packed tuna, drained
½ cup oil-packed black olives, pitted and chopped
3 tablespoons drained nonpareil capers, plus 2 tablespoons of their marinating liquid
1 Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Add salt as you see fit and then the pasta, stirring a few times. Return to a boil with the lid on; uncover and cook at a gentle boil until the pasta is al dente, according to the package directions.
2 While the pasta is cooking, make the caramelized onions and tuna. Heat the olive and anchovy oils in a large skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add the onion and salt. Cook, stirring frequently, until the onion starts to caramelize and turn brown at the edges, about 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium. Add the green onions, garlic, and ¼ teaspoon or more red pepper flakes, to your taste; cook 1 minute, stirring. Move the vegetables to the sides and add the anchovies to the center of the skillet. Cook, pressing on the fillets with a wooden spoon, until they disintegrate, about 1 minute. Add the tuna, the olives, and the capers with their liquid; gently stir to combine and cook until just heated through, about 2 minutes. Taste for salt, and adjust seasoning.
3 To finish, drain the pasta and return it to the pot or to a large serving bowl, reserving ¾ cup of the cooking liquid.