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Ancient Grains for Modern Meals - Maria Speck [92]

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Add the onion-tuna mixture together with a scant ½ cup of the reserved cooking liquid. Toss to combine for about 1 minute, adding a tad more cooking liquid to loosen the pasta if needed. Serve right away, sprinkled with the finely chopped green onion tops.

Creamy Rotelle with Basil Yogurt and Mozzarella

The allure of this speedy pasta is in its mouthwatering simplicity. Assembled in a flash, it is a cross between comforting pasta and lavish summer salad, deliciously creamy without any cream, especially when combined with Homemade Spelt Fettuccine. Combining thick Greek-style yogurt with regular yogurt gives this pasta just the right fullness. Enjoy this as a primo piato in the Italian tradition, followed by fish, chicken, or steak; or as a light summer meal with a plate of ripe tomatoes, black olives, and a drizzle of olive oil. SERVES 4 TO 6

PASTA

Fine sea salt

¾ pound whole wheat rotelle, fusilli, or other short-cut whole grain pasta

BASIL YOGURT

1 cup plain whole-milk Greek-style yogurt

1 cup plain whole-milk yogurt

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1½ tablespoons red wine vinegar

1 to 2 teaspoons minced fresh hot green chile such as serrano

½ teaspoon fine sea salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

4 ounces fresh mozzarella cheese, cut into ½-inch cubes

¾ cup loosely packed chopped fresh basil leaves

1 Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Add salt as you see fit and then the pasta, stirring a few times. Return to a boil with the lid on; uncover and cook at a gentle boil until the pasta is al dente, according to the package directions.

2 While the water is coming to a boil, make the basil yogurt. Combine both kinds of yogurt, garlic, 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, and the vinegar, chile, salt, and pepper in a medium bowl. Add the mozzarella and ½ cup of the basil leaves. Taste for salt, pepper, and vinegar and adjust. Set aside for the flavors to meld while the pasta is cooking.

3 To finish, drain the pasta, briefly rinse under cold water, and return to the pot or to a large serving bowl. Pour the basil yogurt over the pasta and toss to combine. Drizzle with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil and garnish with the remaining ¼ cup basil. Serve at once.

TO LIGHTEN IT UP: You can replace both kinds of yogurt with lowfat varieties (do not use nonfat), but these can be a bit more tangy, so start by adding only 1 tablespoon of vinegar and adjust if needed.

Spaghetti with Roasted Chestnuts, Hazelnuts, and Sage

The assertive ingredients in this pasta cry out for fat, and lots of it—hard to justify in these health-aware times. A good Italian cook would use at least 1 stick of butter or ½ cup of olive oil to give this rustic whole grain composition a comforting slurp. In my search for a tasty alternative, I ended up soaking the crunchy topping in cooking liquid, or I created so dry and healthy a pasta that even a good splash of olive oil at the table didn’t help. What I have learned: it’s better not to drain the pasta too well—there is a reason chefs use tongs or wire-mesh strainers! And it is best to let the pasta sit for a minute or two, tossing and adding cooking liquid until it has absorbed enough to allow the second dose of oil to coat and flavor it. Perfetto! Serve as a first course the Italian way or as a meal by itself, accompanied by a simple dark-leaf salad. SERVES 4

PASTA

Fine sea salt

¾ pound whole wheat spaghetti

CHESTNUT TOPPING

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more to drizzle

16 whole fresh sage leaves, stemmed, rinsed, and patted dry

20 roasted or steamed whole peeled chestnuts, sliced ¼ inch thick (1 slightly heaped cup)

½ cup coarsely chopped hazelnuts (2 ounces)

¼ cup whole wheat panko bread crumbs

1 tablespoon minced garlic (about 3 cloves)

½ teaspoon fine sea salt

¼ cup finely grated Parmesan cheese (½ ounce), plus extra for serving

1 Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Add salt as you see fit and then the pasta, stirring a few times. Return to a boil with the lid on; uncover and cook at

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