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By Root 717 0

The residents are an eclectic lot: a mix of neo-hippies, ski-bum drop-outs, environmentally conscious artists and reclusive celebs – Julia Roberts and Donald Rumsfeld both have houses here. More than 30% of Taos’ residents call themselves artists, and the mountain town with magical light is home to more than 80 galleries. Guadalupe Plaza is the city’s historic heart. Just west of the main intersection of Kit Carson Rd and Paseo del Pueblo Sur, it has been a social gathering place since the 1600s. The plaza is completely enclosed by ancient adobe buildings with deep portals. After strolling around the square, walk down the city’s art alley, historic Ledoux St.

Check into La Fonda de Taos for two nights. The landmark hotel was formerly owned by notorious playboy Saki Karavas and is a sexy place to sleep. The hotel houses a small collection of DH Lawrence’s erotic paintings ($3 admission) in a private viewing room – be sure to check them out. For great people-watching over the plaza head to the 2nd-floor patio of Ogelvie’s Taos Grill & Bar. It serves views with its chicken mole, and garlic and black-pepper rib-eye. Kick back with a couple of fresh lime margaritas. Spend your second day in Taos in the great outdoors. Hike, bike, fish, raft – the list of warm weather activities is endless. In winter it’s all about the skiing and snowboarding on Taos Ski Valley, 20 miles north of downtown. Visit the gigantic Taos Mountain Outfitters to get started. The shop rents, sells and has info on everything you need to play outside. Or rent a full-suspension mountain bike and grab local trail maps at the Gearing Up Bicycle Shop. Before hitting the single track, cycle 3 miles northwest of downtown (make a left on Hwy 64) and visit the innovative Greater World Earthship Development. This collection of environmentally savvy homes is the brainchild of architect Michael Reynolds. His idea was to develop a building method that “eliminates stress from both the planet and its inhabitants.” Buried on three sides by earth, the Earthships are designed to heat and cool themselves, make their own electricity and catch their own water. Sewage is decomposed naturally, and dwellers grow their own food. Head downtown to historic Doc Martin’s for dinner. Relax by the kiva fireplace and pop the cork on one of its award-winning wines. Then dive headlong into the most delicious chiles rellenos. This is where the city’s intellectuals gather.

Return to Santa Fe on the Low Road. The route winds along the Rio Grande and the air is thick with the scent of cedar. Hwy 68 is faster mileage and speed-limit wise, but go slow. Running beside the Rio Grande River for much of the way, it’s also an angler’s paradise, with plenty of good fly-fishing spots. Bring a picnic lunch and stop at one of the tables perched above the river to eat. Keep an eye on the river in summer – you’ll see dozens of tourist-packed white-water rafts rush by. The road cuts through the Rio Grande Canyon for a while – gorgeous – before popping out amidst the apple orchards around Velarde. Your final stop before returning to Española is the family-run Black Mesa Winery. Although the first wineries opened in this part of New Mexico more than 400 years ago, production fizzled over the last century, and only now are vineyards making a comeback. Owners Lynda and Jerry Burd know all about the revitalization of the New Mexico wine industry, and a trip to their vineyard is a must for wine hobbyists.

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DETOUR

Just before the Black Mesa Winery, take a slight detour east on Hwy 75 to the small farming community of Dixon, home to a few galleries and our favorite vineyard in the west, La Chiripada Winery (www.lachiripada.com). We can’t get enough of its inexpensive white wines (less than $20 a bottle; we like the Riesling best). Don’t miss out on the tastings offered from 10am to 5pm Monday through Saturday and from noon to 5pm on Sunday. If you can’t make it to the vineyard, check out the tasting room on the historic plaza in Taos.

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It’s just a short sprint back to Española,