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Arizona, New Mexico & the Grand Canyon Trips (Lonely Planet, 1st Edition) - Aaron Anderson [140]

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where you should treat yourself to a final night on the road sleeping at swanky Rancho de San Juan. This little gem just north of town features first-class rooms, a spa and great service in a spectacular setting. Many consider its restaurant New Mexico’s best.

Becca Blond


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TRIP INFORMATION

GETTING THERE

From Santa Fe take Hwy 285 north for 15 miles to Hwy 76 north to Taos; return via Hwy 68 south.

DO

Black Mesa Winery

New Mexican wines. 505-852-2820; www.blackmesawinery.com; 1502 NM 68, Velarde; 10am-6pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun

Cordova’s Handweaving Workshop

Gorgeous hand-woven blankets, place mats and rugs. 505-689-2437; www.la-tierra.com/busyles; Main Truchas Rd, Truchas; call for hr

Centinela Traditional Arts

Naturally dyed blankets, vests and pillows are sold at this cooperative gallery. 505-351-2180; www.chimayoweavers.com; NM 76, Chimayó; 9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun

Church of San José De Gracia

One of the finest surviving 18th-century churches in the USA. Hwy 76, Las Trampas; admission free; 9am-5pm Mon-Sat Jun-Aug

Gearing Up Bicycle Shop

Rents mountain and hybrid bikes (hour/day/week $10/35/125), full-suspension bikes (per day $50) and road bikes (per day $45). 575-751-0365; 129 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos; 9am-6:30pm

Greater World Earthship Development

The tour office is located 1.5 miles past the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge on US Hwy 64 west. 575-751-0462; http://earthship.org; US Hwy 64; tours $5; 10am-4pm

Sabinita López Ortiz

Austere santos and other intricate local wood carvings are for sale. 505-351-4572; County Rd 9, Córdova; variable

Santuario de Chimayo

An impressive old adobe church with a history of working healing miracles. 505-351-4889; NM 76, Chimayó; admission free; 9am-5pm, mass 11am Mon-Sat & noon Sun

Taos Mountain Outfitters

A great all-around outdoor shop that sells the latest gear and has loads of info on area activities, especially hiking. 575-758-9292; www.taosmountainoutfitters.com; 114 S Plaza, Taos; 10am-5pm

Taos Ski Valley

Check the resort website for ski-and-stay deals, including week-long packages with room, board, lessons and lift tickets. 866-250-7274; www.skitaos.org; half-/full-day lift ticket $47/63

EAT

Doc Martin’s

Bert Philips (the Doc’s bro-in-law) and Ernest Blumenschein cooked up the idea of the Taos Society of Artists at this cozy New Mexican restaurant. 505-758-1977; 125 Paseo del Pueblo Norte; mains $5-35; 7am-10pm

Ogelvie’s Taos Grill & Bar

Great views from the patio; serves New Mexican and American favorites including good steaks. 505-758-8866; 103 E Plaza, Taos; lunch $8-11, dinner $10-26;

Rancho de Chimayó

Amazing New Mexican homecooking and the perfect margarita in atmospheric Southwestern environs. 505-351-4444; www.ranchodechimayo.com; 300 County Rd 98; mains $8-16; 11:30am-9pm Mon-Fri, 8:30am-10:30am Sat & Sun, closed Mon Nov-Apr

Rancho de San Juan

A fabulous, award-winning restaurant (mains $35) and inn just north of downtown Española. 505-753-6818; www.ranchodesanjuan.com; 34020 Hwy 285, Española; r & ste $275-675; 6-8pm Tue-Sun

Sugar Nymphs Bistro

Fill up on New Mexican diner fare, including pizza, at this cozy, crowded family restaurant in tiny Peñasco. 505-587-0311; 15046 State Rd 75, Peñasco; mains $5-15; hr vary, call ahead;

SLEEP

Casa Escondida

Eight beautiful rooms and a hot tub. 505-351-4805; www.casaescondida.com; 64 County Rd 100; r $99-149

La Fonda de Taos

Gorgeous, all-adobe, upscale hotel with a sexy vibe; no children under 13. 800-833-2211; www.hotellafonda.com; 108 S Plaza, Taos; r $239

USEFUL WEBSITES

www.newmexico.org/explore/scenic_byways/highroad.php

www.taoschamber.org

LINK YOUR TRIP www.lonelyplanet.com/trip-planner

TRIP

44 Fiber Arts Trail

48 In the Footsteps of DH Lawrence

56 New Mexico’s Wine Countries

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In the Footsteps of DH Lawrence

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WHY GO A haven for writers and artists, New Mexico holds a prominent place in American literature. Edward Borins, owner of Santa Fe’s Garcia

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