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You’re now heading to Sedona. On the way, you’ll have to slow down through the town center of Cottonwood, where there are a few places to eat and some shops selling curios – underneath the neglected exteriors a lot of these places would charm with enough elbow grease; travelers who are looking to find the next big thing might want to stop and poke around here.

Spend some time in Sedona, but know that the charms reveal themselves slowly. The pull of the place is in the land, and it can take a while to slow down and realize this isn’t a huge movie backdrop. New Age types believe that these glowing red rocks hold vortices of high-octane spiritual energy. Outdoors types love the super-scenic hiking and biking trails. Kids just want to slide down the big, slick rocks into Oak Creek at Slide Rock State Park.

Be sure to dedicate some unstructured time to take in the natural beauty here – even if that means just staring at the red rocks. Set on six acres 500ft above the town, Sky Ranch Lodge delivers on its name. The views from the rooms are nothing but blue sky and red rock. After settling in, head over to Red Rock State Park and, if it’s between April and October, sign up for a moonlight ranger-led hike. During the day the views impress, but under the pale light of the moon the towers of rock make hikers feel like they’re walking through a dream.

Wake up with the sun and watch it rise over the glorious red rocks. After some much-recommended wandering through this special slice of nature, mosey over to D’Lish Very Vegetarian. The vegetarian food is damn good, and even if you’re not a vegan you’ll find the meal satisfying.

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HARMONIC CONVERGENCE

Native tribes have long considered the Sedona area – where the red rocks glow so brightly they look like they’re about to explode – a sacred place. It wasn’t until 1987 that Sedona’s contemporary spirituality arrived in full force. That year, a worldwide meditation event called the Harmonic Convergence gave some people the idea that the Bell Rock formation would open to reveal an alien ship. The UFO never came (or came later, according to believers), but the New Age pilgrims stayed.

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Those who decided to skip Sedona for now can get a big dose of (small) city life in Flagstaff before heading up to one of the seven wonders of the natural world. Hotel Monte Vista is the classic place to stay in Flagstaff – it banks on reputation and location more than on the quality of the rooms, but they are clean and comfy enough and many of them are decorated after the famous celebs who’ve stayed here: John Wayne, Freddie Mercury, Marilyn Monroe and…Air Supply. The hotel is also right in the heart of historic downtown Flagstaff, bounded on one side by busy Route 66 (and the loud-at-night train that parallels the route) and on the other by the sports paradise of the San Francisco Peaks. Americana meets outdoor adventure here – you’re just as likely to see a car with a ski rack on top as a restored Studebaker making the iconic Route 66 trip.

Downtown Flagstaff is full of eating and drinking places. If you’re here on a Friday or Saturday evening stop at Mountain Oasis Cafe – it has flavors from around the world but its weekend prime rib is something to write home about. If it’s not a weekend night, the reward is that the nightly stargazing at Lowell Observatory will be a lot less crowded. Even people who aren’t that into astronomy will still dig the old brass-and-wood scientific instruments that give the place a Lemony Snicket vibe. There are plenty of fascinating exhibits and a state-of-the-art space theater, but most people come to see the 1896 24in Clark Telescope where Clyde Tombaugh first spotted Pluto in 1930.

The next morning – and mornings really are best for the 90-mile trip through two national parks to the Grand Canyon Village – take ’er easy on Hwy 180 and Hwy 64. Most people speed to the canyon and miss the transitions on this drive, where there is nary