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By Root 752 0

a trace of civilization in sight. At first there are so many trees on the side of the road you’re always in the shade and it’s easy to feel chilly. You’ll see the San Francisco Peaks through the tops of trees moving and jerking like in an old-fashioned movie because of the tricks of perspective at 60mph. Then, there’s the big flat of the Coconino Plateau, where if you’re lucky you’ll see huge fields of little yellow wildflowers. Finally, more trees, but they’re taller and straighter here, as if proud of the privileged location near the canyon.

Stop at the National Geographic Visitor Center in Tusayan to pony up the $25 per-vehicle entrance fee and save yourself what could be a 30-minute wait at the entrance of the park. There’s a neat IMAX film about the Grand Canyon here with all the stomach-dropping aerial shots you’d expect from the large-format film company. The real thing is just 7 miles north of here.

The strangest thing about a first-time visit to the Grand Canyon is that a person often expects a slow-build up of beauty with the canyon as the finale. In reality, things just look like they did ever since Flagstaff until you finally make it to the edge. Then, it takes a few minutes to let it sink in that this is live, not a painted scene. Then, well, there aren’t the words to do it justice. You’ll just have to see for yourself, and try not to spill your drink.

Josh Krist

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TRIP INFORMATION

GETTING THERE

Wickenburg, Prescott, Jerome and Sedona are all northwest of Phoenix on Hwy 60 and Hwy 89A.

DO

Hassayampa River Preserve

A place for birders to go loony over 240 feathered residents, on the west side of Hwy 60, 3 miles southeast of town near Mile 114. 928-684-2772; admission $5; 7am-11am Fri-Sun mid-May–mid-Sep, 8am-5pm Wed-Sun mid-Sep–mid-May

Jerome Artists Cooperative Gallery

About 30 local artists working in pottery, painting, jewelry and other media sell their creations at fair prices here. 928-639-4276; www.jeromeartistscoop.com; 502 Main St, Jerome; 10am-6pm

Jerome State Historic Park

Two miles beyond Jerome en route to Cottonwood, look at the historical displays and the weathered mining equipment outside. 928-634-5381; www.pr.state.az.us; Hwy 89A, Jerome; adult/child $3/free; 8am-5pm

Lowell Observatory

Nightly stargazing. During the day 30-minute tours offered hourly between 1:15pm and 4:15pm. 928-233-3211; www.lowell.edu; 1400 W Mars Hill Rd, Flagstaff; adult/child/student/senior $6/3/4/4; 9am-5pm Mar-Oct, noon-5pm Nov-Feb

National Geographic Visitor Center

Stop here to pay your entrance fee and cruise through a special lane at the park entrance. 928-638-2468; www.explorethecanyon.com; Hwy 64, Tusayan; canyon admission per vehicle $25; 8am-8pm

Phippen Museum

Hosts changing exhibits of celebrated Western artists, including Prescott resident John Coleman. 928-778-1385; www.phippenartmuseum.com; 4701 Hwy 89, Prescott; adult/under 12 yr/concession $5/free/4; 10am-4pm Tue-Sat, 1pm-4pm Sun

Red Rock State Park

Ranger-led nature walks year-round, moonlight hikes from April to October. 928-282-6907; www.azstateparks.com; Lower Red Rock Loop Rd, Sedona; per vehicle $6; 8am-7pm May-Aug, 8am-6pm Apr & Sep, 8am-5pm Oct-Mar;

Sharlot Hall Museum

More a collection of historic buildings than a tradition museum; see the governor’s restored log cabin “mansion.” 928-445-3122; www.sharlot.org; 415 W Gurley St, Prescott; adult/child $5/free; 10am-4pm Mon-Sat, noon-4pm Sun

Smoki Museum

The lowdown on Southwestern Native American history through artefacts dating from prehistory to the present. 928-445-1230; www.smokimuseum.org; 147 N Arizona St, Prescott; adult/student/senior/under 12 yr $5/3/4/free; 10am-4pm Tue-Sat, 1pm-4pm Sun

Vulture Mine

A high-producing gold mine from 1863 to 1942. Head west on Hwy 60, turn left onto Vulture Mine Rd and follow it for 12 miles. 602-859-2743; Vulture Mine Rd, Wickenburg; admission by donation $7; 8am-4pm;

EAT & DRINK

D’Lish Very Vegetarian

Try the tamarind-glazed walnut burgers or raw zucchini pasta. The food