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By Root 1281 0

or German,” Bill conjectures, pointing at a group loading up with cold cuts and cheese. Only the Japanese opt for miso soup, and only other Asians for congee. The fruit, sushi, and the various breads, ranging from croissants to scones, don’t provide solid clues because a cross section of people pick them up. In case anyone else is playing the same game, we try to be tricky, eating a lot of the locally raised pineapple and a little of everything else except the tasteless boxed cereals.

The rain continues all day, driving us by the middle of the afternoon into the hotel bar. After surveying the worldwide list of possibilities, we order a margarita and a mojito, figuring Thais know a lot about lime and mint flavors. They do indeed, and the drinks go great with the snacks on the table, peanuts studded with garlic and cilantro.

Back at Mom Tri’s a few hours later, we find the atmosphere gloomier than the night before, with the terrace closed and the windows shut tight against the storm. The cooking excels again, particularly the pla tod ki mow, a deep-fried sea bass topped with red curry, and the goong sarong, a Phuket specialty of shrimp rubbed with a paste of white pepper and cilantro, then wrapped in softened rice vermicelli and deep-fried. The food lifts our spirits, but not to the peaks of our first dinner.

It’s still raining in the morning of day number one of the dry high season as we pack up to leave for India. By now, we’re ready for a change of scenery. Our joys in Thailand certainly outnumber our disappointments, and guarantee to be far more memorable, but the up-and-down swings tire us in a way we don’t experience elsewhere on the trip. Going from elation to frustration and back again requires a lot of running to keep up with the tempo. At this point, the soggy finish line ahead looks welcome.

THE NITTY-GRITTY

ROYAL PRINCESS CHIANG MAI

http://chiangmai.royalprincess.com

112 Chang Klan Road, Chiang Mai

66-5328-1033 fax 66-5328-1044

Large, pleasant deluxe rooms, but the

hotel is too close to the madness of the

Night Bazaar for our tastes.

HONG TAUW INN

Nimanhaemin Road near the intersection

of Huay Kaew Road, Chiang Mai

66-5321-8333

lunch and dinner

THE NATIONAL ELEPHANT INSTITUTE

www.thailandelephant.org

Lampang

66-5422-8108

SIAM CITY HOTEL BANGKOK

www.siamhotels.com

477 Si Ayuthaya Road,

Phayathai, Bangkok

66-2247-0123 fax 66-2247-0178

Classy for a moderately priced hotel and

near the Phayathai Skytrain station.

THE ORIENTAL

www.mandarinoriental.com/bangkok/

48 Oriental Avenue, Bangkok

66-2659-9000 fax 66-2659-0000

Once often ranked the world’s finest hotel

and still as polished as ever.

AW TAW KAW FOOD MARKET

www.talay.org

Bangkok

RAAN JAY FAI

327 Maha Chai Road,

Phra Nakhon, Bangkok

66-2223-9384

dinner only

POLO FRIED CHICKEN

137/1-2 Soi Polo

off Wireless Road,

Lumphini, Bangkok

lunch and early dinner (no reservations)

RUT & LUK

on Soi Phadungdao near the intersection

of Yaowarat Road, Chinatown, Bangkok

dinner only (no reservations)

CHOTE CHITR

146 Phraeng Phouthon,

Bangkok

66-2221-4082

lunch and dinner Don’t miss it.

AMANPURI

www.amanresorts.com

Pansea Beach, Phuket

66-7632-4333 fax 66-7632-4100

Absolutely lovely and restful.

AMARI CORAL BEACH RESORT

www.phuket.com/amari/

Patong Beach, Phuket

66-7634-0106 fax 66-7634-0115

Conventional in most respects,

but close to the water for Patong.

MOM TRI’S BOATHOUSE

www.boathousephuket.com

Kata Beach, Phuket

66-7633-0015 fax 66-7633-0561

Great ocean-front location for both the

hotel and the restaurant, which is open

for lunch and dinner.

Beef Khao Soi

SERVES 6 OR MORE

The Chile Paste

1 whole dried red New Mexico or ancho chile

2 to 4 whole dried chiles de arbol or japonais chiles or other small hot dried red chiles

2 teaspoons coriander seeds

½ teaspoon cumin seeds

½ teaspoon cardamom seeds

1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

3-inch chunk fresh ginger

½ cup vegetable