Around the World in 80 Dinners - Bill Jamison [71]
3 medium shallots, sliced into thin rings and rings separated
6 garlic cloves, chopped fine
Toast lightly in a dry skillet over medium-high heat until fragrant, first the New Mexico chile, followed by the chiles de arbol, coriander seeds, cumin seeds, and cardamom. As each is fragrant, dump out into a spice grinder or mortar and pestle and grind. Then add each to a food processor. Add the nutmeg, turmeric, cinnamon, and ginger. Pulse to combine.
In a small heavy skillet warm the vegetable oil over medium heat until very hot but short of smoking. Add the shallots, stirring them almost continually, until they begin to turn golden. After 5 minutes, add the garlic and continue stirring. Reduce the heat a bit if the oil is spattering or the shallots begin to brown darkly. Cook about 10 minutes longer, until both shallots and garlic are deeply golden. Pour the oil through a fine strainer into a heatproof container and reserve it. Spread the shallot mixture out on a couple of thicknesses of paper towels to cool briefly and crisp.
Add to the food processor and puree to a thick paste. The chile paste can be used immediately for the khao soi or refrigerated tightly covered for up to several days.
The Noodles
1½ pounds thin dried egg noodles, about the size of fettuccine, Chinese or Italian
2 tablespoons coconut milk, freshly made if available
2 tablespoons coconut oil
Reserved shallot-garlic oil and vegetable oil for deep-frying
Take one-third of the noodles (8 ounces), break them more or less in half, place them in a large bowl, and cover them with warm water. Let them sit in the water until they become pliable, about 30 minutes. Strain off the water and scatter the noodles on a clean dish towel to dry, patting them down a bit as you go so that all surfaces dry thoroughly.
While that batch of noodles softens, bring a large pot of salted water to a vigorous boil and in it cook the remaining 1 pound of noodles until quite tender, a bit softer and creamier than for al dente pasta. Drain the cooked noodles and place them in a large bowl. Toss them with the coconut milk and oil to help keep them from sticking together. Reserve them at room temperature.
Rinse out and dry the pan used for cooking the noodles. Add to it the shallot-garlic oil and at least 2 inches of vegetable oil and heat to 350°F. In several batches, deep-fry the 8 ounces of noodles that were soaked and patted dry. Fry until crispy and lightly golden, about 2 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon or strainer to paper towels.
The Broth and Beef
1½ pounds boneless top sirloin steak, sliced across the grain into thin
strips, about ½ inch across and 2 inches long
1½ teaspoons curry powder
1 cup coconut cream (not cream of coconut), freshly made if possible
3 cups coconut milk, freshly made if available
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon Thai fish sauce, or more to taste
2 tablespoons palm sugar, turbinado sugar, or brown sugar
½ cup sliced scallion rings, both green and white portions
¼ cup chopped cilantro leaves
2 teaspoons to 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
Massage the steak pieces with the curry powder.
In a large heavy skillet with high sides, or a Dutch oven, bring the coconut cream to a boil over high heat. Stir in the chile paste and reduce the heat to medium. Cook for about 2 minutes, until the oil separates. Mix in the steak, stirring it into the mixture well, and cook until the meat loses its raw color. Pour in the coconut milk and cook the mixture another 10 minutes, adjusting the heat as needed to keep a bare simmer. Mix in the soy sauce, fish sauce, and sugar. Simmer for about 15 minutes longer, until the broth has thickened just enough to have some body to it and the steak is quite tender. Add the scallions in the last 2 or 3 minutes of cooking. Taste and add more fish sauce if desired for salty tang. Mix in cilantro and enough lime juice to balance the sugar and coconut. Keep the broth warm. If it thickens beyond soupy, add a little water to