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Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [102]

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(Section 8, Stall 267, Soi 17) sells canvas clothing and tote bags, many featuring old-school Thai themes. And if you can’t make it up to Chiang Mai, One to Tree (Section 26, Stall 235, Soi 8) or Roi (Section 25, Stall 268, Soi 4) is where you’ll find hand-woven cotton scarves, clothes and other accessories from Thailand’s north.

For accessories, several shops in Sections 24 and 26, such as Modern Silver (Section 26, Stall 246, Soi 8) specialise in chunky silver jewellery and semiprecious uncut stones.

Eating & Drinking

Lots of Thai-style eating and snacking will stave off Chatuchak rage (cranky behaviour brought on by dehydration or hunger), and numerous food stalls set up shop between Sections 6 and 8. Long-standing standouts include Foon Talop (Section 26, Stall 319, Soi 8), an incredibly popular Isan restaurant; Café Ice (Section 7, Stall 267, Soi 3), a Western-Thai fusion joint that does good pàt tai and tasty fruit shakes; and Saman Islam (Section 16, Stall 34, Soi 24), a Thai-Muslim restaurant that serves a tasty chicken biryani. If you need air-con, pop into Toh-Plue (Th Kamphaengphet 2; 11am-8pm; Kamphaeng Phet exit 1) for all the Thai standards. And as evening draws near, down a beer at Viva’s (Section 26, Stall 149, Soi 6), a cafe-bar that features live music and stays open late, or cross Th Kamphaengphet 2 to the cosy whisky bars that keep nocturnal hours.

Housewares & Decor

The western edge of the market, particularly sections 8 to 26, specialises in all manner of housewares, from cheap plastic buckets to expensive brass woks. This area is a particularly good place to stock up on inexpensive Thai ceramics, ranging from celadon to the traditional rooster-themed bowls from Lampang. N & D Tablewares (Section 25, Stall 185, Soi 4) has a huge variety of stainless steel flatware, and Tan-Ta-Nod (Section 22, Stall 061, Soi 5) deals in coconut and sugar palm–derived plates, bowls and other utensils.

Those looking to spice up the house should stop by Spice Boom (Section 26, Stall 246, Soi 8), where you can find dried herbs and spices for both consumption and decoration. Other notable olfactory indulgences include the handmade soaps, lotions, salts and scrubs at D-narn (Section 19, Stall 204, Soi 1) and the fragrant perfumes and essential oils at Karmakamet (Section 2, Soi 3).

Pets

Possibly the most fun you’ll ever have window shopping will be petting puppies and cuddling kittens in sections 13 and 15. Soi 9 of the former features several shops that deal solely in clothing for pets.

Plants & Gardening

The interior perimeter of sections 2 to 4 feature a huge variety of potted plants, flowers, herbs and fruits, and the accessories needed to maintain them. Many of these shops are also open on weekday afternoons.

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NANDAKWANG

Map Handicrafts

0 2259 9607; www.nandakwang.com; 108/2-3 Soi 23, Th Sukhumvit; 9am-5pm Mon-Thu, 9am-6pm Fri & Sat, 10am-5pm Sun; Sukhumvit exit 2; Asok exit 3

A satellite of a Chiang Mai store, Nandakwang sells a fun and handsome mix of cloth, wood and glass products. The cheery hand-embroidered pillows and bags are particularly attractive. There is also a branch on the 3rd floor of Siam Discovery Center.

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top picks

BANGKOK’S BEST MARKETS

Chatuchak Weekend Market Stock up on souvenirs or invest in a vintage tracksuit – they’re all here.

Nonthaburi Market (right) The most picturesque fresh market in the area, but get here early, ideally before 8am

Pak Khlong Market Show up late for the visual poetry that is the nightly flower market.

Pratunam Market Acres of cheap togs, much of it for less than you’d pay for a pair of socks at home.

Vespa Market (right) Antique vehicles and urban hipsters unite here every Saturday night.

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THANON SUKHUMVIT MARKET

Map Market

Th Sukhumvit, btwn Soi 3 & Soi 15; 11am-11pm; Nana exits 1 & 3

Leaving on the first flight out tomorrow morning? Never fear about gifts for those back home; the street vendors will find you with faux Fendi handbags, soccer kits, ‘art’, sunglasses and jewellery, to name a few. You

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