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Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [103]

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’ll also find stacks of nudie DVDs, Chinese throwing stars, penis-shaped lighters and other questionable gifts for your high-school-aged brother.

EMPORIUM SHOPPING CENTRE

Map Shopping Centre

0 2269 1000; www.emporiumthailand.com; 622 Th Sukhumvit, cnr Soi 24; 10am-10pm; Phrom Phong exit 2

Once Bangkok’s most chichi shopping centre, Emporium is finally starting to show its age in comparison to its hipper and younger siblings, Siam Paragon and the recently remodelled Central World Plaza.

The ground floor is filled with Euro fashion labels, like Prada, Miu Miu and Chanel. The 2nd floor is more casual, with homegrown contenders, such as Soda, which has snipped punk into haute wear, and image-maker Greyhound. Staid Jim Thompson even gets a facelift with its branch here. On the 3rd floor, indigenous kitschy-cool gifts and home decor can be found at Propaganda.

Even more impressive than the resident fashionistas is the Thailand Creative & Design Centre (TCDC; 0 2664 8448; www.tcdc.or.th; 6th fl), a design museum, with an attached gift shop selling cool souvenirs related to the various exhibits, and a design library.


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GREATER BANGKOK

Markets really capture the hubbub of Bangkok and the real reason to visit the burbs is the world famous Chatuchak Weekend Market.

ÁMANTEE

Map Antiques/Art

0 2982 8694; www.amantee.com; 131/3 Soi 13, Th Chaeng Wattana, Greater Bangkok; 9am-8pm; Mo Chit exit 3 & then taxi

Although well outside of the city centre, this ‘repository of Oriental and Tibetan art and antiques’ is well worth the trip. Consisting of several interconnecting wooden Thai houses holding a variety of classy items, the peaceful compound also boasts a cafe ( 9am-5pm), accommodation and occasional cultural events.

A Thai-language map for taxi drivers can be downloaded from the website.

NONTHABURI MARKET

Map Market

Tha Nam Non, Nonthaburi; 5am-9am; Tha Nonthaburi (N30)

Located a short walk from Tha Nonthaburi, the northernmost extent of the Chao Phraya Express boats, this is one of the most expansive and atmospheric produce markets in the area. Exotic fruits, towers of dried chillies, smoky grills and the city’s few remaining rickshaws form a very un-Bangkok backdrop here. Come early though, as most vendors are gone by 9am.

To get to the market, take any northbound Chao Phraya Express boat and get off at Tha Nonthaburi, the final stop. The market is a two-minute walk along the main road from the pier.

VESPA MARKET

Map Market

cnr Th Rachadaphisek & Th Lat Phrao, Lat Phrao; 6-11pm Sat; Lat Phrao exit 1

Uniting urban cowboys, hip-hoppers, wannabe mods and pissed-off punks, this expansive outdoor market is a virtual melting pot of Bangkok youth subculture. The original emphasis was on vehicles, and you can still find heaps of vintage Vespas and Lambrettas, Volkswagens and Austin Minis for sale or show betwixt quirky T-shirts, used sneakers and modern antiques.


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EATING

* * *

ETIQUETTE

HOW THAIS EAT

STAPLES & SPECIALITIES

PRACTICALITIES

KO RATANAKOSIN & THONBURI

BANGLAMPHU

EATS WALK: THANON TANAO

THEWET & DUSIT

CHINATOWN

EATS WALK: CHINATOWN

SIAM SQUARE, PRATUNAM, PLOENCHIT & RATCHATHEWI

SIAM SQUARE, PRATUNAM & PLOENCHIT

RATCHATHEWI

RIVERSIDE, SILOM & LUMPHINI

RIVERSIDE & SILOM

LUMPHINI

THANON SUKHUMVIT

GREATER BANGKOK

* * *

* * *

top picks

Bo.lan (Thai, Click here)

Krua Apsorn (Thai, Click here)

Gianni Ristorante (Italian, Click here)

Mahboonkrong Food Court (Thai & International, Click here)

Street food in Chinatown (Thai-Chinese, Click here)

* * *

What’s your recommendation? www.lonelyplanet.com/bangkok

In Thailand, food is culture, and vice versa. Appreciation of the national cuisine is so central to their cultural identity that Thais often assume that foreigners are unable to partake in it unless they have been trained in the difficult art of feeling exhilarated over a bowl of well-prepared gǒo·ay đěe·o (noodle soup). You will not be asked simply whether you like to eat Thai food, but ‘Gin

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