Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [113]
RUB AROON
Map Thai $
0 2622 2312; 310-312 Th Maharat; mains 60-95B; 8am-6pm; air-con 503, 508 & 511, ordinary 15 & 53; Tha Tien (N8)
Perfectly situated for a post-temple refresher, this cafe across the street from Wat Pho also throws in great old-word atmosphere and a few simple dishes.
WANG LANG MARKET
Map Thai $
Th Phra Chan & Trok Wang Lang; mains 30-80B; cross-river ferry at Tha Tien (N8)
Beside Siriraj Hospital is a busy market that sprawls west from Tha Wang Lang. Many of the vendors prepare fiery southern-style curries and dishes such as pàt pèt sà·đor (spicy red-curry stir-fry with stink beans). The theory is that southern Thai food took root here because of the nearby train station that served southern destinations.
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top picks
DINING WITH A VIEW
The Deck (left) The prime position for viewing a sunset over Wat Arun.
D’Sens Modern French cuisine and one of Bangkok’s greenest views.
Emporium Food Hall (boxed text Click here) The cheapest dining room with a view in town.
Erawan Tea Room One of Bangkok’s busiest intersections at your feet.
Kaloang Home Kitchen Home to an atmospheric deck overlooking Mae Nam Chao Phraya (Chao Phraya River).
Rang Mahal (boxed text Click here) A sea of concrete towers meets the horizon from this rooftop perch.
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BANGLAMPHU
Bangkok’s most traditional district is not surprisingly one of the best places to try authentic central Thai and Bangkok-style nosh. To really get an idea of what is on offer, be sure to try our food-based walking tour of the area Click here.
Because of the long-standing backpacker presence, Western and vegetarian food is also plentiful and cheap.
OH MY COD!
Map English $$
0 2282 6553; www.fishandchipsbangkok.com; 95d Soi Rambuttri Village Inn, Soi Rambutri Ι; mains 40-220B; 7am-11pm; air-con 3 & 16, ordinary 3, 15 & 16; Tha Phra Athit (Banglamphu, N13)
English cuisine bears the burden of a negative reputation, but is there anything more satisfying than fish and chips? An order here takes the form of a puffy fillet accompanied by thick-cut chips and peas, prepared ‘garden’ or ‘mushy’ style. Breakfast is served all day, and parched Anglophiles can enjoy a cuppa in the sunny courtyard dining area.
CAFÉ PRIMAVERA
Map Italian $$
0 2281 4718; 56 Th Phra Athit; mains 95-375B; 8am-11pm; air-con 3, ordinary 3 & 15; Tha Phra Athit (Banglamphu, N13)
If the coffee was just a tad better, this dark-wood and marble-topped table trattoria is just the kind of place we’d like to make our local cafe. The pizzas and homemade gelati offer more hope, and the friendly and efficient staff seal the deal.
HEMLOCK
Map Thai $$
0 2282 7507; 56 Th Phra Athit; mains 65-140B; 4pm-midnight Mon-Sat; air-con 3, ordinary 3 & 15; Tha Phra Athit (Banglamphu, N13)
Taking full advantage of its cosy shophouse location, this perennial favourite has enough style to feel like a special night out but doesn’t skimp on flavour or preparation. The eclectic menu reads like an ancient literary work, reviving old dishes from the aristocratic kitchens across the country. Try the flavourful mêe·ang kam (wild tea leaves wrapped around ginger, shallots, peanuts, lime and coconut flakes) or yam kà·moy (thieves’ salad).
JAY FAI
Map Thai $$
0 2223 9384; 327 Th Mahachai; mains 200-250B; 3pm-2am; air-con 59, ordinary 42 & 59; klorng boat to Tha Phan Fah
You wouldn’t think so by looking at her bare-bones dining room, but Jay Fai is known far and wide for serving Bangkok’s most expensive pàt kêe mow (drunkard’s noodles). The price is justified by the copious fresh seafood, as well as Jay Fai’s distinct frying style that results in a virtually oil-free finished product.
BAAN PHRA ATHIT (COFFEE & MORE)
Map Cafe $
0 2280 7878; 102/1 Th Phra Athit; mains 50-120B; 10am-9pm Sun-Thu, 10am-10pm Fri & Sat; air-con 3, ordinary 3 & 15; Tha Phra Athit (Banglamphu, N13)
When only air-conditioning will do, why not do it in style? This classy cafe features a few basic Western-Thai fusion dishes, decent coffee,