Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [114]
SHOSHANA
Map Israeli $
0 2282 9948; 86 Th Chakraphong; mains 90-150B; 8am-midnight; air-con 3 & 16, ordinary 3, 15 & 16; Tha Phra Athit (Banglamphu, N13)
One of Khao San’s longest-running Israeli restaurants, Shoshana resembles your grandparents’ living room down to the tacky paintings and perpetual reruns of Seinfeld. The ‘I heart Shoshana’ T-shirts worn by the wait staff may be a hopelessly optimistic description of employee morale, but the gut-filling chips-felafel-and-hummus plates leave nothing to be desired.
* * *
VEGGING OUT IN BANGKOK
Vegetariansim is a growing trend among urban Thais, but veggie restaurants are still generally few and far between.
Banglamphu has the greatest concentration of vegetarian-friendly restaurants, thanks to the nonmeat-eating fà·ràng; these are typically low-scale stir-fry shops that do something akin to what your hippie roommates have cooking in their kitchens. Examples include the entirely meat-free Arawy Vegetarian Food (Map; 152 Th Din So; 7am-8pm) and May Kaidee’s (Map; 0 2281 7699; www.maykaidee.com; 33 Th Samsen; 9am-10pm), the latter of which also offers a veggie Thai cooking school. Ranee Guesthouse (Map; 77 Trok Mayom; 8am-10pm) and Hemlock (above) are two regular restaurants that have extensive meat-free menus.
In the centre of town, Koko (Map; 0 2658 4094; 262/2 Soi 3, Siam Sq; 11am-9pm) offers an extensive veggie menu in addition to its usual Thai menu – perfect for a mixed crowd. Ariya Organic Café (Map; 0 2626 0188; 2nd fl, Mahboonkrong, Siam Sq; 10am-10pm) takes it a step further and offers only raw (not heated above 46°C) snacks. Upstairs, Mahboonkrong’s Food Court has a delicious vegetarian stall (stall C8) that requires mastery of the Asian queue in order to sneak in an order.
North of town, Baan Suan Pai (Map; 0 2617 2090; 17/1 Th Phahonyothin, Central Bangkok; 7am-3pm) and Chamlong’s Asoke Café (Map; 0 2272 4282; 580-592 Th Phahon Yothin, Greater Bangkok; 6am-2pm Tue-Fri, 6am-3pm Sat & Sun) are two dedicated and expansive vegetarian food centres. And upscale-ish Thai- and Italian-style veggie eats can be found at Anotai (Map; 0 2641 5366; 976/17 Soi Rama 9 Hospital, Greater Bangkok; 10am-9.30pm Thu-Tue), which also has an organic vegetable market.
Indian restaurants, particularly those featuring southern Indian cuisine such as Chennai Kitchen, are also largely veggie.
During the Vegetarian Festival in October, the whole city goes mad for tofu, and stalls and restaurants indicate their nonmeat menu with yellow banners; Chinatown has the highest concentration of stalls.
* * *
KRUA NOPPHARAT
Map Thai $
0 2281 7578; 130-132 Th Phra Athit; mains 40-140B; 10.30am-2.30pm & 5-9pm Mon-Sat; air-con 3, ordinary 3 & 15; Tha Phra Athit (Banglamphu, N13)
A few dusty paintings are the only effort at interior design at this family-run standby. Where flavour is concerned, however, Krua Noppharat is willing to expend considerably more energy. Krua Noppharat is as popular among foreigners as it is among Thais, but does not tone down its excellent central- and southern-style Thai fare for the former.
PAN
Map Thai $
0 838 174 227; Th Rambutri; mains 50-90B; 11.30am-10pm; air-con 3 & 16, ordinary 3, 15 & 16; Tha Phra Athit (Banglamphu, N13)
If you’re looking for authentic Thai but don’t want to stray far from the comforts of Th Khao San, this streetside eatery (next to Viengtai Hotel) is your best bet. Simply look for the overflowing tray of raw ingredients, point to what you want and Pan will mix it up for you. The clientele is decidedly international, but the flavours wholly domestic.
THIP SAMAI
Map Thai $
0 2221 6280; www.thipsamai.com; 313 Th Mahachai; mains 25-120B; 5.30pm-1.30am; air-con 59, ordinary 42 & 59; klorng boat to Tha Phan Fah
Brace yourself, but you should be aware that the fried noodles sold from carts along Th Khao San have nothing to do with the dish known as pàt tai. Luckily, less than a five-minute túk-túk ride away lies