Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [115]
ROTI-MATABA
Map Thai-Muslim $
0 2282 2119; 136 Th Phra Athit; mains 50-90B; 9am-10pm Tue-Sun; air-con 3, ordinary 3 & 15; Tha Phra Athit (Banglamphu, N13)
This classic eatery appears to have become a bit too big for its britches in recent years, but still serves tasty Thai-Muslim dishes such as roti, gaang mát·sà·màn (Muslim curry), a brilliantly sour fish curry, and má·tà·bà (a sort of stuffed Indian pancake). An upstairs air-con dining area and outdoor tables provide barely enough seating for its loyal fans.
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EATS WALK: THANON TANAO
Walking Tour
Despite its proximity to the faux pàt tai and tame đôm yam of Th Khao San, Banglamphu, particularly in the area around Th Tanao, is one of the most legendary eating areas in town. The flavours here are very Bangkok, featuring a balance of tastes with a slight emphasis on the sweet. This is where your Thai friends’ parents ate as children, and despite the good reputations, the prices are low.
You’d have to be a competition-class eater to visit every place along this walk, so we recommend stopping in at whatever stall or restaurant most appeals to you. Bringing an eating companion gives you the opportunity to hit up even more places, and it’s always fine to order just one dish to share.
Opening times vary, but the best time to do this walk is on a weekday from 11am to approximately 2pm, when the vendors are stocked and ready for the daily lunch barrage. Start at the intersection of Th Ratchadamnoen Klang and Th Tanao (the side opposite Th Khao San).
1 Kim Leng
Walking along Th Tanao on the right side of the road, the first restaurant you’ll encounter is this tiny family-run restaurant, Kim Leng (; 0 2622 2062; 158-160 Th Tanao; 10am-10pm Mon-Sat), specialising in the dishes and flavours of central Thailand. This is a good place to whet your appetite with an authentic yam (Thai-style salad) such as yam Ъlah dùk foo, a mixture of crispy catfish and mango.
2 Raat Naa Yot Phak
Continuing for about 300m until you pass San Chao Phor Seua, the Chinese temple, you’ll come to Raat Naa Yot Phak (; 0 2622 1910-0; 512-514 Th Tanao; 10am-9.30pm), an open-air restaurant that has been selling the eponymous fried noodle dish for 40 years. Don’t miss the pàt see éw, wide rice noodles flash-fried with marinated pork, egg, Chinese kale and soy sauce. On your way out grab a pork satay or kôw klúk gà·Ъì (rice cooked in shrimp paste) from the vendors who sit directly in front of this restaurant during lunch.
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WALK FACTS
Start Cnr Th Ratchadamnoen Klang & Th Tanao
End Th Tanao at Phraeng Phuthon
Distance Approximately 600m
Duration Up to three hours, depending on how many dishes you care to scoff
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3 Khanom Beuang Phraeng Nara
Turn right down Th Phraeng Nara, a popular lunchtime destination for the area’s ravenous civil servants. Continue 50m on the right-hand side until you reach a woman at two coal burning stoves warming what look like miniature tacos. This is Khanom Beuang Phraeng Nara (; 0 2222 8500; Th Phraeng Nara; 11am-3pm), and the eponymous snacks come in two forms, sweet and savoury. Bag a couple and make your way back to Th Tanao.
4 Chote Chitr
Continue along Th Tanao until you reach Th Phraeng Phuthon. At your left just inside the entrance is Chote Chitr ( 0 2221 4082; 146 Th Phraeng Phuton; 11am-10pm), a Bangkok foodie landmark renowned for its delicious mèe gròrp (sweet-and-spicy crispy fried noodles). If you require a sit-down meal at this point, this is a good place to do it.
5 Natthaphorn
Continuing into the courtyard area and on your left past the first side street is Natthaphorn (; 0 2221 3954; 94 Th Phraeng Phuthon; 7am-7pm), a crumbling shophouse that for the last 70 years has been churning Bangkok’s most famous coconut ice cream (a refreshing