Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [117]
Shark-fin soup may draw heaps of Asian tourists into this place, but Hua Seng Hong’s varied menu, which includes dim sum, braised goose feet and noodles, makes it a delicious destination for anybody craving Chinese.
ROYAL INDIA
Map Indian $$
0 2221 6565; 392/1 Th Chakraphet, Phahurat; mains 100-250B; 10am-10pm; air-con 3, 60, 73 & 512, ordinary 3, 53, 60 & 73; Tha Saphan Phut (Memorial Bridge, N6)
A windowless dining room of 10 tables in a creepy alley may not be everybody’s ideal lunch destination, but this legendary north Indian place continues to draw foodies despite the lack of aesthetics. Try any of the delicious breads or saucy curries, and finish with a homemade Punjabi sweet.
CHIANG KII
Map Thai-Chinese $$
54 Soi Bamrungrat (Soi 12), Th Yaowarat; mains 250B; 5pm-10pm; air-con 4, 21, 25, 507 & MB5, ordinary 4, 25, 29, 53 & 159; Tha Ratchawong (N5); Hua Lamphong exit 1 & taxi
At 250B, Chiang Kii’s kôw đôm Ъlah (rice soup with fish) is among the most expensive in town. Before baulking at the price, witness the care that the elderly Thai-Chinese owners put into every bowl, not to mention the generous amount of exceedingly fresh fish, and it begins to make sense.
HONG KONG NOODLES
Map Chinese $
136 Trok Itsaranuphap (Soi 16), Th Charoen Krung; mains 30B; 9am-6pm; air-con 4, 21, 25, 507 & MB5, ordinary 4, 25, 29, 53 & 159; Tha Ratchawong (N5); Hua Lamphong exit 1 & taxi
Deep in the heart of the vendor-lined soi also known as Talaat Mai (New Market), this claustrophobic shop does a busy trade in steaming bowls of wheat-and-egg noodles. If you can find a seat, there’s a nice vista of the surrounding commerce.
OLD SIAM PLAZA
Map Thai $
cnr Th Phahurat & Th Triphet, Phahurat; mains 30-90B; 10am-8pm; air-con 3, 60, 73 & 512, ordinary 3, 53, 60 & 73; Tha Saphan Phut (Memorial Bridge, N6)
Wedged between the western edge of Chinatown and the northern edge of Phahurat, this shopping plaza has a decent 3rd-floor food centre serving Thai and Chinese food. Even better yet, the ground floor is a crash course in Thai desserts, with vendors selling streetside sweets in a more sanitary setting.
THAI CHAROEN
Map Thai-Chinese $
0 2221 2633; 454 Th Charoen Krung; mains 20-30B; 9am-7pm; air-con 4, 21, 25, 507 & MB5, ordinary 4, 25, 29, 53 & 159; Tha Ratchawong (N5); Hua Lamphong exit 1 & taxi
Simply look for the table of delicious-looking eats out front. This unassuming restaurant specialises in cheap and delicious Thai-Chinese specialities such as stuffed squid, stir-fried eggplant, and jàp chài (a Chinese vegetable ‘stew’).
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EATS WALK: CHINATOWN
Walking Tour
Street food rules in this part of town and many of Chinatown’s best kitchens don’t require walls or a roof, making the area ideal for a food-based adventure.
Many of the dishes you’ll encounter along this walk are noodle-based and thus quite filling, so bringing a friend or three and sharing is a good way to ensure that you can try as many dishes as possible.
Although many vendors stay open until the wee hours, the more popular stalls tend to sell out quickly, and the best time to feast in this area is from 7pm to 9pm. Don’t try this walk on a Monday when most of the city’s street vendors stay at home.
1 Burapa Birds Nest
Start your walk at the intersection of Th Yaowarat and Th Phadung Dao. Moving west, turn right into Th Plaeng Nam. Immediately on your right you’ll see Burapa Birds Nest ( 0 2623 0191; Th Plaeng Nam; 11am-midnight), as good a place as any to try the very Chinatown dish, bird’s nest soup.
2 Khrua Phornlamai
Directly across from Burapa you’ll see a gentleman on the street working three coal-fired stoves. This stall, Khrua Phornlamai (; 0 818 230 397; Th Plaeng Nam; 7pm-late Tue-Sun), is where you’ll find greasy but delicious pàt kêe mow (wide rice noodles fried with seafood, chillies and Thai basil).
3 Nay Mong
Continue down Th Plaeng Nam and cross Th Charoen Krung. Go straight, staying on the right-hand side for about 50m, until you