Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [118]
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WALK FACTS
Start/End Cnr Th Yaowarat and Th Phadung Dao
Distance Approximately 1km
Duration Two to three hours, depending on how many dishes you tackle
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4 Jek Pui
Backtrack to Th Charoen Krung and turn right. Upon reaching Th Mangkorn make a right and immediately on your left-hand side you’re bound to see a row of people waiting in line, and several more sitting on plastic stools holding plates of food in their hands. This is Jek Pui (; 0818 509 960; Th Mangkorn; 5pm-9pm Tue-Sun), a table-less stall known for its Chinese-style Thai curries. Try the gaang kěe·o wǎhn lôok chín Ъlah grai, a mild green curry with freshwater fish dumplings.
5 Gǒo·ay Đěe·o Kôo·a Gài
Cross Th Charoen Krung again, turn left, and continue east until you reach Soi 16, a narrow alleyway also known as Talat Mai, the area’s most famous strip of commerce. At the end of the alley you’ll see a gentleman frying noodles with a brass wok and a spoon. He’s making gǒo·ay đěe·o kôo·a gài (; Soi 16, Th Charoen Krung; 6pm-midnight Tue-Sun), a simple but delicious dish of rice noodles fried with chicken, egg and garlic oil.
6 Nay Lek Uan
Upon emerging at Th Yaowarat, cross over to the busy market area directly across the street. The first vendor on the right, Nay Lek Uan (; 0 2224 3450; Soi 11, Th Yaowarat; 6pm-1am Tue-Sun), is among the most popular stalls in Bangkok, and sells gǒo·ay jáp nám săi, an intensely peppery broth containing noodles and pork offal. If offal doesn’t whet your appetite, there are several more stalls here selling everything from pàt tai to satay.
7 Mangkorn Khao
Returning back to Th Yaowarat, turn right and continue until the next intersection. On the corner of Th Yaowaphanit and Th Yaowarat you’ll see a stall with yellow noodles and barbecued pork. This is Mangkorn Khao (; 0 2682 2352; 7pm-11pm Tues-Sun). Delicious wontons and, if you can manage it, bà·mèe (Chinese-style wheat noodles), are the order of the day from this respected vendor.
8 Lek & Rut, T&K
Cross the road and continue east along Th Yaowarat for one block and you’re back to where you started. By now the two opposing seafood places, Lek & Rut ( 0816 375 039; 6pm-midnight) and T&K ( 0 2223 4519; 6pm-midnight) should be buzzing. You could join the tourists for grilled prawns and fried rice, but possibly by this point you’ve had your fill of what Chinatown really has to offer.
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SIAM SQUARE, PRATUNAM, PLOENCHIT & RATCHATHEWI
Welcome to Mall Land. Although the plastic facades of famous franchises seem to prevail, there are some noteworthy independent eats, both with and without amenities such as air-conditioning and shopping families. Soi Lang Suan is a virtual Little Italy of Italian restaurants, and the area around Th Withayu is home to a few longstanding Thai restaurants.
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SIAM SQUARE, PRATUNAM & PLOENCHIT
GIANNI RISTORANTE
Map Italian $$$
0 2252 1619; www.giannibkk.com; 34/1 Soi Tonson, Th Ploenchit; mains 330-990B; 10am-10pm; Chit Lom exit 4
Widely considered among Bangkok’s finest Italian restaurants, Gianni also offers more than 250 wines and one of the most generous lunch specials in town. The eponymous and ebullient owner is always on site, and is always willing to recommend a dish or the right bottle to accompany it.
CRYSTAL JADE LA MIAN XIAO LONG BAO
Map Chinese $$
0 2250 7990; Urban Kitchen, Basement, Erawan Bangkok, 494 Th Ploenchit; mains 160-400B; 10am-10pm; Chit Lom exit 8
The tongue-twistingly long name of this excellent Singaporean chain refers to the restaurant’s signature wheat noodles (la mian) and the famous Shanghainese steamed dumplings (xiao long pao). If you order the hand-pulled noodles (which you should do) allow the staff to cut them with kitchen shears, otherwise you’ll end up with ample evidence of your meal on your shirt.
ERAWAN TEA ROOM
Map