Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [119]
0 2250 7777; 2nd fl, Erawan Bangkok, 494 Th Ploenchit; mains 170-450B; 10am-10pm; Chit Lom exit 8
The oversized chairs, panoramic windows and variety of hot drinks make this one of Bangkok’s best places to catch up with the paper. The lengthy menu, with an emphasis on regional Thai dishes, will likely encourage you to linger longer, and the selection of jams and teas to take away lets you recreate the experience at home.
COCA SUKI
Map Thai-Chinese $$
0 2251 6337; 416/3-8 Th Henri Dunant, Siam Sq; mains 60-200B; 11am-11pm; Siam exit 6
Immensely popular with Thai families, sù·gêe takes the form of a bubbling hotpot of broth and the raw ingredients to dip therein. Coca is one of the oldest purveyors of the dish, and the Siam Sq branch reflects the brand’s efforts to appear more modern. Fans of spice be sure to request the tangy ‘tom yam’ broth.
FOOD PLUS
Map Thai $
alleyway btwn Soi 3 & Soi 4, Siam Sq; mains 30-70B; 6am-6pm; Siam exit 2
This claustrophobic alleyway is bursting with the wares of several ráhn kôw gaang (rice and curry stalls). Everything is made ahead of time, so simply point to what looks tasty: you’ll be hard-pressed to spend more than 100B, and the flavours are unanimously authentic and delicious. Try to avoid the heart of the lunch rush (approximately 12.15pm to 12.45pm) when virtually every shopkeeper in the area (and believe us, there are many) seems to descend on the place.
NEW LIGHT COFFEE HOUSE
Map Thai $
0 2251 9592; 426/1-4 Soi Chulalongkorn 64, Siam Sq; mains 60-200B; 8am-11.30pm; Siam exit 2
Travel back in time to 1960s-era Bangkok at this vintage diner popular with students from nearby Chulalongkorn University. Try old-school Western dishes, all of which come accompanied by a soft roll and green salad, or choose from the extensive Thai menu.
SANGUAN SRI
Map Thai $
0 2252 7637; 59/1 Th Withayu, Ploenchit; mains 60-150B; 10am-3pm Mon-Sat; Phloen Chit exit 5
This restaurant, resembling a concrete bunker filled with furniture circa 1973, can afford to remain decidedly cher-i (old-fashioned) simply because of its reputation. Mimic the area’s hungry office staff and try the excellent gaang pèt Ъèt yâhng, red curry with grilled duck breast served over snowy white kà·nǒm jeen noodles.
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FOOD COURT FRENZY
Every Bangkok mall worth its escalators has some sort of food court. In recent years many have gone upscale, and the setting, cuisine and service have also elevated accordingly. The following are some of the better choices:
FoodPark (Map; 0 2250 4888; 5th fl, Big C Ratchadamri, 97/11 Th Ratchadamri; 9am-10pm) is the proletariat of the genre. The food selections here are not going to inspire you to move east, but they are numerous and cheap, and representative of the kind of ‘fast food’ Thais enjoy eating. To pay you must first exchange your cash for a temporary credit card at one of several counters; your change is refunded at the same desk.
Food Loft (Map; 6th fl, Central Chidlom, 1027 Th Ploenchit; 10am-10pm) at Central Chidlom pioneered the concept of the upscale food court, and mock-ups of the various Indian, Italian, Singaporean and other international dishes aid in the decision making process. Upon entering, you’ll be given a temporary credit card and will be led to a table. You have to get up again to order, but the dishes will be brought to you. Paying is done on your way out.
MBK Food Court (Map; 6th fl, Mahboonkhrong, cnr Th Phra Ram I & Th Phayathai, Siam Sq; 10am-9pm), the granddaddy of the genre, offers vendors selling food from virtually every corner of Thailand and beyond. Standouts include an excellent vegetarian food stall (stall C8) and a very decent northeastern Thai food vendor (C22).
Park Food Hall (Map; 5th fl, Emporium Shopping Centre, 622 Th Sukhumvit, cnr Soi 24; 10am-10pm) brings together some of the city’s most well-known international restaurants. Emporium Food Hall, on the same floor, features cheaper, mostly Chinese and Thai food, and what must be the cheapest meal with a view in town. Paying is done by buying coupons at the windows