Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [120]
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RATCHATHEWI
MALLIKA RESTAURANT
Map Thai $$
0 2248 0287; 21/36 Soi Rang Nam; mains 30-70B; 10.15am-10pm Mon-Sat; Victory Monument exit 2
Visit this corner of northern Bangkok for a taste of Thailand’s southern provinces. The menu spans the region with spicy hits such as kôo·a glîng (minced meat fried with curry paste), or gaang sôm (a turmeric-laden seafood soup). Prices are slightly higher than elsewhere, but you’re paying for quality.
TIDA ESARN
Map Thai/International $$
0 2247 2234; 1/2-5 Soi Rang Nam; mains 50-150B; 10.30am-10.30pm; Victory Monument exit 2
Tida Esarn sells country-style Thai food in a decidedly urban setting. Foreigners provide the bulk of the restaurant’s customers, but to its benefit, the kitchen still insists on serving full-flavoured Isan-style dishes such as súp nòr mái, a tart salad of shredded bamboo.
PATHÉ
Map Thai $$
0 2644 4321; 507 Th Ratchawithi; mains 70-140B; 7am-midnight; Victory Monument exit 4
The modern Thai equivalent of a 1950s-era American diner, this popular place combines solid Thai food, a fun atmosphere and a jukebox playing scratched records. The menu is equally eclectic, and combines Thai and Western dishes and ingredients – be sure to save room for the deep-fried ice cream.
VICTORY POINT
Map Thai $
cnr Th Phayathai & Th Ratchawithi; mains 30-60B; 6pm-midnight; Victory Monument exit 4
In Bangkok, the best meals are always in unlikely places. Far from the foreign forces of inner Bangkok, Victory Point can be as provincial as it wants, with a squat village of concrete stalls lit in neon and a mix of super-casual and delicious food vendors.
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RIVERSIDE, SILOM & LUMPHINI
Riverside Bangkok is often associated with hotel fine dining, but this is actually one of the city’s most diverse eating districts. Those willing to try something different can poke into one of the numerous Thai-Muslim or Indian restaurants near the intersection of Th Silom and Th Charoen Krung. Authentic foreign food can be found at the eastern end of Th Silom, near BTS Sala Daeng, and several old-school eating houses can be found towards the river end. And if you’re set on decadent dining, but can’t justify the price tag, consider lunch, when many of Bangkok’s most famous hotel restaurants offer cut-rate specials to entice diners.
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RIVERSIDE & SILOM
D’SENS
Map French $$$
0 2200 9000; www.dusit.com; 22nd fl, Dusit Thani Hotel, 946 Th Rama IV; mains 250-1900B; 11.30am-2pm Mon-Fri & 6-10pm Mon-Sat; Si Lom exit 3; Sala Daeng exit 4
Bangkok’s swankiest diners come to D’Sens, located in what looks like a control tower at the top of the Dusit Thani Hotel, for vibrant contemporary French cuisine as designated by the Michelin star–lauded brothers, Jacques and Laurent Pourcel. Gracious service and one of the best views of Bangkok round out the package.
LE BOUCHON
Map French $$$
0 2234 9109; 37/17 Soi Patpong 2, Th Silom; mains 180-830B; noon-3pm & 7pm-midnight; Si Lom exit 2; Sala Daeng exit 1
Cast aside any preconceived notions of pretentious waiters and intimidating menus; this homely bistro in the middle of one of Bangkok’s more ‘colourful’ districts is a capable and fun introduction to French cooking. Choose your dishes from the blackboard menu toted around by cheery waiting staff, but it’d be a shame to miss the garlicky frogs’ legs or the savoury foie gras pâté.
LE NORMANDIE
Map French $$$
0 2236 0400; www.mandarinoriental.com; Oriental Hotel, Soi 38, Th Charoen Krung; dishes 750-3900B, 4-course/6-course degustation menu 3800/4400B; noon-2.30pm & 7-10.30pm Mon-Sat, 7-10.30pm Sun; air-con 504, 544 & 547, ordinary 1, 15, 35 & 163; Tha Oriental (N1)
For decades Le Normandie was synonymous with fine dining in the city. And although today’s Bangkok boasts a plethora of upmarket choices, Le Normandie has maintained