Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [123]
Indian-Nepali vegetarian cuisine via Myanmar may sound like an entirely new cuisine altogether, but somehow it tastes just right. This informal kitchen, operated by a Burmese cook of Nepali descent, assembles a mean meat-free thali. Cap off your meal with a visit to Kathmandu, the photography gallery across the street, and you’ll soon forget which part of Asia you’re actually in.
CILI PADI
Map Malaysian $
0 2634 2839; 160/9 Th Narathiwat Ratchanakharin (Chong Nonsi); mains 30-100B; 11am-10pm Sun-Thu; Chong Nonsi exit 4
This culinary outpost from south of the border exudes a casual cafe-like atmosphere, and authentic teh tarik (Malaysian-style sweet tea) and roti canai (a crispy pancake served with a lentil dip) make it a clever stop for an air-conditioned break. Lunch specials and an expansive menu ranging from noodle dishes to hearty Malaysian-style curries provide even more excuses to linger.
CIRCLE OF FRIENDS
Map Thai $
0 2237 0080; Soi 10, Th Sathon Neua; mains 60-100B; 10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 4pm-8pm Sat; Surasak exit 3
Somehow remaining cool and shady on even the hottest days, this leafy cafe shares space with the adjacent Saeng-Arom Ashram. With each day of the week comes two attractive set-menu options, and refreshing herbal and fruit drinks abound.
HARMONIQUE
Map Thai $
0 2237 8175; Soi 34, Th Charoen Krung; mains 65-200B; 11am-10pm Mon-Sat; air-con 504, 544 & 547, ordinary 1, 15, 35 & 163; Tha Oriental (N1)
A tiny oasis squeezed into a former Chinese residence, Harmonique is an expat staple for thrifty romantic dinners. The dishes are unabashedly designed for folks fearful of chillies and fish sauce, but the ambience of fairy lights, a central banyan tree and marble-topped tables have spared Harmonique from our chopping block.
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DAY OFF
Fans of street food be forewarned that all of Bangkok’s stalls close on Monday for compulsory street cleaning (the results of which are not always entirely evident come Tuesday morning). If you happen to be in the city on this day, take advantage of the lull to visit one of the city’s upscale hotel restaurants, which virtually never close.
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JAY SO
Map Thai $
0859 994 225; 146/1 Soi Phiphat 2, Th Convent; mains 20-50B; 10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat; Si Lom exit 2; Sala Daeng exit 2
This bright-red crumbling shack is living proof that, where authentic Thai food is concerned, ambience is often considered more a liability than an asset. Fittingly, Jay So has no menu as such, but a mortar and pestle and a huge grill are the telltale signs of ballistically spicy sôm đam, sublime herb-stuffed grilled catfish and other Isan specialities.
KHRUA AROY AROY
Map Thai $
0 2635 2365; Th Pan, Th Silom; mains 30-70B; 6am-6pm; air-con 76, 77, 177, 504, 514, 547 & MB12, ordinary 77, 162, 163 & 164; Surasak exit 3
Despite being the kind of family-run Thai restaurant where nobody seems to mind a cat slumbering on the cash register, Khrua Aroy Aroy (‘Delicious Delicious Kitchen’) lives up to its lofty name. Stop by for some of the richest curries around, as well as the interesting daily specials including, on Thursdays, kôw klúk gà·Ъì, rice cooked in shrimp paste and served with sweet pork, shredded green mango and other toppings.
SOI 10 FOOD CENTRES
Map Thai $
Soi 10, Th Silom; mains 20-60B; 8am-2pm Mon-Fri; Si Lom exit 2; Sala Daeng exit 1
These two adjacent hangar-like buildings tucked behind Soi 10 are the main lunchtime fuelling stations for this area’s office staff. Choices range from southern-style kôw gaang (point-and-choose curries ladled over rice) to virtually every form of Thai noodle.
SOI PRADIT MARKET
Map Thai $
Soi 20, Th Silom; 10am-10pm; mains 25-100B; air-con 76, 77, 177, 504, 514, 547 & MB12, ordinary 77, 162, 163 & 164; Surasak exit 3
This blue-collar street market is a virtual microcosm of Thai cuisine. Muslims deep-fry marinated chicken in front of the mosque, while across the way Chinese vendors chop up