Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [124]
SOMTAM CONVENT
Map Thai $
0 2634 2839; 2/4-5 Th Convent; mains 30-120B; 10.30am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-5pm Sat & Sun; Si Lom exit 2; Sala Daeng exit 2
Northeastern-style Thai food is usually relegated to less-than-hygienic stalls perched by the side of the road with no menu or English-speaking staff in sight. A less intimidating introduction to the wonders of lâhp, sôm đam and other Isan delights can be had at this popular restaurant.
HOME CUISINE ISLAMIC RESTAURANT
Map Thai-Muslim $
0 2234 7911; 196-8 Soi 36, Th Charoen Krung; mains 45-130B; 11am-10pm Mon-Sat, 6pm-10pm Sun; air-con 504, 544 & 547, ordinary 1, 15, 35 & 163; Tha Oriental (N1)
Hidden in a leafy corner mercifully distant from hectic Th Charoen Krung, this bungalow-like restaurant does tasty Thai-Muslim with an endearing Indian accent. Sit out on the breezy patio and try the simultaneously rich and sour fish curry, accompanied ideally by a flaky roti or three.
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top picks
OLD-SCOOL BANGKOK DINING
Chote Chitr Enjoy the flavours of Olde Bangkok served up in an antique shophouse.
Mizu’s Kitchen Travel back in time to the R&R days of the ‘American’ War.
Muslim Restaurant (right) Pull up a booth and enjoy dishes that haven’t changed in nearly a century.
Ngwan Lee Lang Suan (right) Indulge at this tasty food hall with decades of experience.
Sanguan Sri Party like it’s 1969; fortunately the food is that of the timeless variety.
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MUSLIM RESTAURANT
Map Thai-Muslim $
0 2234 1876; 1354-6 Th Charoen Krung; mains 30-90B; 10am-8pm; air-con 504, 544 & 547, ordinary 1, 15, 35 & 163; Tha Oriental (N1)
Plant yourself in any random wooden booth of this ancient eatery for a glimpse into what restaurants in Bangkok used to be like. The menu, much like the interior design, doesn’t appear to have changed much in the restaurant’s 70-year history, and the biryanis, curries and samosas are still more Indian-influenced than Thai.
NAAZ
Map Thai-Muslim $
0 2234 4537; 24/9 Soi 45, Th Charoen Krung; mains 35-90B; 8.30am-10pm Mon-Sat; air-con 504, 544 & 547, ordinary 1, 15, 35 & 163; Tha Oriental (N1)
Hidden in a nondescript alleyway is Naaz (pronounced Nát), a tiny living-room kitchen serving some of the city’s richest kôw mòk gài (chicken biryani). Various daily specials include chicken masala and mutton korma, but we’re most curious to visit on Thursday when the restaurant serves something called Karai Ghost.
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LUMPHINI
NAHM
Map Thai $$$
0 2625 3388; www.metropolitan.como.bz; Metropolitan Hotel, 27 Th Sathon Tai; set dinner 1800B; noon-2pm & 6.30-10.30pm; Lumphini exit 2
Renowned Australian chef and author David Thompson is bringing his Michelin-starred Thai cuisine home to Bangkok. Diners can expect similar interpretations of the classic dishes available at Thompson's London restaurant, as well as sublime Thai sweets prepared by Thompson’s partner, Tanongsak Yordwai.
NGWAN LEE LANG SUAN
Map Thai-Chinese $$
0 2250 0936; cnr Soi Lang Suan & Th Sarasin; mains 150-300B; 6pm-3am; Ratchadamri exit 2
This cavern-like staple of copious consumption is still going strong after all these decades. If you can locate the entrance, squeeze in with the post-clubbing crowd and try some of those dishes you never dare to order elsewhere, such as jàp chài (Chinese-style stewed veggies) or hǒy lai pàt nám prík pǒw (clams stir-fried with chilli sauce and Thai basil).
KAI THAWT JAY KII (SOI POLO FRIED CHICKEN)
Map Thai $
0 2655 8489; 137/1-3 Soi Polo, Th Withayu; mains 30-150B; 7am-9pm; Lumphini exit 3
This Cinderella of a former street stall has become virtually synonymous with fried chicken. Although the sôm đam, sticky rice and lâhp (spicy ‘salad’ of minced meat) give the impression of an Isan eatery, the restaurant’s namesake deep-fried bird is more southern in origin. Regardless, smothered in a thick layer of crispy deep-fried garlic, it is none other