Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [129]
With the owners’ possessions overflowing into the dining room, a heavily laden spirit shrine and tacky synthetic tablecloths, Thonglee is the epitome of a typical Thai restaurant. However, in the sea of foreign food that is Th Sukhumvit, this is exactly what makes it stand out. Thonglee offers a few dishes you won’t find elsewhere, like mǒo pàt gà·Ъì (pork fried with shrimp paste) and mèe gròrp (sweet-and-spicy crispy fried noodles).
YUY LEE
Map Thai $
0 2258 4600; 25 Soi 31, Th Sukhumvit; mains 25-60B; 10am-8pm Mon-Sat; Phrom Phong exit 5
This aged but spotless eatery serves a variety of dishes, but most folks come for the northern Thai noodle duo of kôw soy (wheat noodles in a curry broth) and kà·nǒm jeen nám ngée·o (fresh rice noodles in a tomato and pork broth). The former, although not bad for Bangkok, can’t compete with the real deal from Chiang Mai, but the latter is an excellent take on a hard-to-find dish.
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GREATER BANGKOK
Although it will involve something of a schlep for most visitors, an excursion to Bangkok’s suburbs can be a profoundly tasty experience. The northern reaches of the city in particular are home to heaps of restaurants that wouldn’t even consider toning down their food to suit foreigners. The city’s outskirts are also a particularly great place to sample regional Thai cuisine.
BAAN KLANG NAM 1
Map Thai $$$
0 2292 0175; www.baanklangnam.net; 3792/106 Soi 14, Th Phra Ram III, Greater Bangkok; mains 200-400B; 11am-midnight; Saphan Taksin exit 4 & taxi
Near Khlong Toey Port, this rustic wooden house is a favourite of the Thai matriarchs and guests at nearby Montien Riverside. The cost of seafood here is a little higher than at other riverside restaurants, but reflects the quality. Crab, prawns and whole white fish are among the hits that make people swoon.
NANG LOENG MARKET
Map Thai $
btwn Soi 8-10, Th Nakhon Sawan, Central Bangkok; 10am-2pm Mon-Sat; air-con 72
Dating back to 1899, this atmospheric fresh market is a wonderful glimpse of old Bangkok, not to mention a great place to grab a bite. Nang Loeng is renowned for its Thai sweets, and at lunchtime is also an excellent place to fill up on savouries. Try a bowl of handmade egg noodles at Rung Rueng ( 0 2281 9755; 62/147 Soi 8, Th Nakhon Sawan) or the wonderful curries across the way at Ratana ( 0 2281 0237).
OR TOR KOR MARKET
Map Thai $
Th Kampangphet, Greater Bangkok; mains 30-60B; 10am-5pm; Kamphaeng Phet exit 3
Or Tor Kor is Bangkok’s highest-quality fruit and agricultural market, and sights such as toddler-sized mangoes and dozens of pots full of curries are reason enough to visit. The vast majority of vendors’ goods are takeaway only, but a small food court and a few informal restaurants exist, including Rot Det, which does excellent stir-fries and curries, and Sut Jai Kai Yaang, just south of the market, which does sublime Isan.
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top picks
REGIONAL VICTUALS
Jay So Supreme northeastern Thai – if you can handle the heat.
Khrua Aroy Aroy The closest you’ll get to an authentic southern Thai curry shack without hopping on a train.
Mallika Restaurant Authentic southern Thai flavours in a comfortable setting.
Nang Loeng Market A variety of vendors hawking true central Thai flavour.
Yuy Lee Northern-style noodles in the heart of Bangkok.
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To get here, take the MRT to Kampheng Phet station and exit on the side opposite Chatuchak (the exit says ‘Marketing Organization for Farmers’).
PHAT THAI ARI
Map Thai $$
0 2270 1654; Th Phahonyothin, Central Bangkok; mains 70-120B; 11am-10pm Mon-Sat; Ari exit 4
One of Bangkok’s most famous pàt tai restaurants has moved from its namesake soi to a new home across the street. Try the innovative ‘noodle-less’ version, where long strips of crispy green papaya are substituted for the traditional rice noodles from Chanthaburi. The restaurant is located on the small sub-soi just south of Soi 8 that is labelled ‘Phahonyothin Center’.
ROSDEE
Map Thai-Chinese $
0 2331 1375;