Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [130]
This stodgy family eating hall is never going to make it on to any international magazine’s ‘hot list’ of places to dine, but the elderly bow-tied staff does give the place a certain element of charm. Instead, Rosdee is known for its consistently tasty, well-executed Thai-Chinese favourites such as the garlicky aw sùan (oysters fried with egg and a sticky batter), or the house speciality, braised goose.
YUSUP
Map Thai-Muslim $
0851 362 864; Kaset-Navamin Hwy, Greater Bangkok; mains 30-90B; 11am-2pm; Mo Chit exit 3 & taxi
The Thai-language sign in front of this restaurant boldly says rah·chah kôw mòk (King of Biryani) and Yusup backs it up with flawless biryani (try the unusual but delicious kôw mòk Ъlah; fish biryani), not to mention mouth-puckeringly sour oxtail soup and decadent gaang mát·sà·màn. For dessert try roh·đi wăhn, a paratha-like crispy pancake topped with sweetened condensed milk and sugar – a dish that will send most carb-paranoid Westerners running away screaming.
To find Yusup, get in a taxi heading north from Mor Chit BTS station and ask the driver to take you to Th Kaset-Navamin (also locally known as the sên đàt mài). Turn right at the Kaset intersection and continue about 1km past the first stoplight; Yusup is on the left-hand side.
DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE
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DRINKS
FRUIT DRINKS
BEER
RICE WHISKY & RUM
DRINKING
LIVE MUSIC
CLUBBING
GO-GO BARS
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top picks
Bangkok’s rooftop bars
Banglamphu
Living Room
Parking Toys
Tapas Room
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What’s your recommendation? www.lonelyplanet.com/bangkok
Disregard the tired cliché of Bangkok’s nightlife as a one-trick pony. The infamous girlie-bar scene may still be going just as strong as it has been for the last 30 years but, despite what your uncle told you, having a good time in Bangkok does not necessarily have to involve ping-pong balls or bar fines. Just like in any other big international city, the drinking and partying scene in Bangkok ranges from points classy to trashy, and touches on just about everything in between.
The powers that be, however, take a slightly different view on fun, and would seemingly rather have us watching traditional dance performances and being tucked into bed by 9pm. Since 2004 the vast majority of Bangkok’s bars and clubs have been ordered by authorities to close by 1am. A complicated zoning system sees venues in designated ‘entertainment areas’, including RCA (Royal City Avenue), Th Silom, and parts of Th Sukhumvit, open until 2am, but even these ‘later’ licenses are subject to police whimsy. Despite the resulting financial losses and negative impact on tourism (not to mention Bangkok’s reputation), the policy has been popular among Thais, and there is little chance of seeing any changes to the policy in the near future.
The good news is that everything old is new again. Th Khao San, that former outpost of foreigner frugality, has undergone something of an upscale renaissance and is now more popular with the locals than ever. In addition to the main strip, Th Rambutri and Th Phra Athit also draw drinkers and fun seekers from across the city, and the world. And RCA (Royal City Avenue), a suburban nightclub zone previously associated with gum-snapping Thai teenagers, has finally graduated from high school and is drawing in dancers and drinkers of all ages and races.
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DRINKS
Bangkok is justifiably renowned for its food and nightlife, but markedly less so for its beverages. Yet drinks are the glue that fuse these elements, and without them, that market tour or ladyboy cabaret show would be less entertaining. From potable domestic brews to a rainbow of refreshing fruit drinks, hydrating in Bangkok is nearly always a pleasure.
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FRUIT DRINKS
With the abundance of fruit growing in Thailand, the variety of juices and shakes available in markets, street stalls and restaurants is extensive. The all-purpose term