Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [156]
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Rose Hotel
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SLEEPING
The last five years have seen Bangkok experience a very welcome hotel-building boom. While the city has long been home to some of the finest luxury hotels in the world, it wasn’t so easy to find a decent midrange room. That has all changed, with stylish new midrange properties opening almost every month. Competition is intense and the resulting price war means big discounts are available at almost any time of year (see Click here). Of course, the construction activity has extended further than the midrange. Several smaller, quirky luxury properties have emerged to compete with the established big-name dames. And budget lodgings aren’t what they once were, either; flashpackers will be right at home in Bangkok’s new industrial chic ‘hostels’.
Like the city itself, Bangkok’s accommodation is spread far and wide. Your choices are modern Sukhumvit, the business centre around Silom, the scenic riverside, the backpacker enclave of Banglamphu, the shopping district around Siam Sq, or boisterous Chinatown. To get a feel for which neighbourhood you might fancy before you book, see Click here. And remember, Bangkok traffic can be diabolical…so if you can be near the Skytrain, Metro or river ferry you’ll save time.
If money is your main consideration, then there’s a good chance you’ll end up on or near the famous (or infamous, depending on your experience) Th Khao San backpacking mecca Click here. Th Silom and Th Sukhumvit cater mainly to midrange and top-end budgets. Interesting options in the low end of the midrange can be found in Siam Sq, Ko Ratanakosin and Chinatown.
The best time for discounts is outside Bangkok’s peak season, which is November to March and July and August. Discounts can also be had through Thai travel agencies or at Bangkok’s airport hotel desks. With few exceptions, Bangkok accommodation wants you to check in at 2pm and check out at noon.
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KO RATANAKOSIN & THONBURI
As Bangkok’s oldest districts, the royal island of Ko Ratanakosin and Thonburi across the river make an ideal base for exploring the city’s major historic sites and experiencing life by Mae Nam Chao Phraya. The sleeping options are suitably charismatic, with these five intimate abodes among the most atmospheric lodgings in the city. The biggest has only 12 rooms, so booking ahead is a good idea.
CHAKRABONGSE VILLAS
Map Boutique Hotel $$$
0 2222 1290; www.thaivillas.com; 396 Th Maharat, Ko Ratanakosin; villas 4,500-25,000B; Tha Tien (N8);
The grounds of Prince Chakrabongse Bhuvanath’s 19th-century mansion have been adapted to become one of the city’s classiest, most discreet boutique properties. The historic mansion remains a private home; the seven villas are set at either end of the garden. The pick are those nearer to the river, which combine a modern Zen feel with luxuries in Thai and Chinese styles. But the clincher is the delightful riverside dining pavilion with postcard views across to Wat Arun. Meals are cooked to order using the freshest ingredients; the restaurant is open to the public with a day’s notice.
AURUM: THE RIVER PLACE
Map Hotel $$
0 2622 2248; www.aurum-bangkok.com; Soi Pansuk, Th Maharat, Ko Ratanakosin; r 3700-4600B; Tha Tien (N8);
At the river end of a row of old Chinese godowns, the Aurum manages to feel at home here despite its faux-Parisian style. The 12 tastefully furnished rooms are by no means big, but the windows are and make the most of the not-wholly-uninterrupted river views. Breakfast is included and there’s a riverside cafe right next door.
ARUN RESIDENCE
Map Hotel $$
0 2221 9158/9; www.arunresidence.com; 36-38 Soi Pratu Nok Yoong, Th Maharat, Ko Ratanakosin; d 3500-5500B; Tha Tien (N8);
A couple of minutes’ walk from Wat Pho along another soi (lane) of godowns, the Arun Residence is a romantic retreat because of its restaurant, The Deck, bar and unrivalled views across to Wat Arun. The six rooms are fitted out with charismatic midcentury decor and modern luxuries (including wi-fi), but some have better views