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Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [157]

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and more space than others. Three have private decks, with the Arun Suite being the pick. Wherever you stay, you’ll find it hard to drag yourself away from the sunset views from the bar.

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ROOM RATES – WHAT YOU GET FOR YOUR MONEY

Accommodation in this book is broken down into three categories. We’ve listed the mid-season rates including the ++, which in Thailand is 10% service and 7% government tax. These are the walk-in rates quoted to us, but where hotels offer online discounts we’ve included the rates they had available at the time of research. Remember that both the walk-in and online rates change frequently – sometimes hourly. For more on online discounts, see the boxed text.

$$$ more than 4500B a night

$$ 1000B to 4500B a night

$ less than 1000B a night

So what do you get for your money? Bangkok’s growing array of top-end hotels start at about 4500B and climb many times higher. In the top tier, rooms start at more than 10,000B, but in most of the luxurious design and boutique hotels, and the vast majority of the international brands, you’re looking at 6000B to 9000B, before online discounting.

You can pay up to 4500B for a midrange room, too, though with discounting most are available for between 2000B and 3800B. Of course, more-modest properties have more-modest rates – modesty seemingly defined by the style of the decor. Thus older places are often quite cheap, while trendier new hotels are pricier.

The days of 50B beds in Banglamphu are over, but those on wafer-thin budgets can still get a dorm bed for between 150B and 400B, with a shared bathroom. More comfortable and stylish rooms are available for upwards of 800B, price rising with size, location and facilities.

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IBRIK RESORT

Map Boutique Hotel $$

0 2848 9220; www.ibrikresort.com; 256 Soi Wat Rakhang, Th Arun Amarin, Thonburi; d 4000B; Tha Wang Lang (Siriraj, N10);

Fancy a room by the river? If you roll out of bed in this three-room resort you could roll right into the river (which, given this is the Chao Phraya, is not recommended). The resort is in a white wooden house and with silks and four-poster beds the rooms are perfect for a romantic getaway that won’t feel forced. Note the Moonlight room has no view, but occupants can use the communal riverside terrace. A sister property (Map; 0 2211 3470; 235/16 Th Sathon Tai) is hidden down a lane off Th Sathon, near Surasak BTS. Both have online deals from 3200B.


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BANGLAMPHU

To the north of Ko Ratanakosin is Banglamphu, a truly unique backpacker phenomenon and the world’s greatest clearing house of international travellers. Centred around Th Khao San – better known simply as ‘the Khao San Rd’ or ‘KSR’ – Banglamphu has graduated from the days of spartan, 50B cells with bed bugs and paper-thin walls (and mattresses) to boast a fast-growing roster of midrange options. Of course, cheap rooms are still available and whether you are flashpacking or counting the pennies, fierce competition means you’ll get the best value for your baht in Banglamphu.

Booking ahead is recommended in peak season, particularly in the more expensive places. Still, if you’re a bit flexible you should be able to wander around and find something at any time of year.

Banglamphu’s popularity has seen lodgings spread out within about a 1km radius of its KSR epicentre. The district can be sliced into three main personalities centred on the following streets: Th Khao San, Soi Rambutri and Th Phra Athit and Th Samsen.

Th Khao San itself has upgraded its image and certainly its prices. Most of the grim shoeboxes have been replaced by comfortable, if not exactly inspiring, mid-rises with air-con and lifts. Prices are more suited to the barely 20s travelling with robust credit cards than the every-baht-is-sacred crowd of yore. Savvy budgeters should shop around for the latest makeover or newcomer luring new business with cut-rate promotions. Or better yet, step off KSR to find better value. For budget travellers who want to stay near KSR and are happy to forfeit cleanliness,

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