Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [158]
Along leafy Soi Rambutri and the river-facing Th Phra Athit is a more mature and slightly less crowded scene. Hotels have more creature comforts, there’s less techno music to keep you awake and outdoor parties wind up earlier. It’s all a short walk from Th Khao San – cut through the little Tel Aviv of the Secret Garden guesthouse – and conveniently near Tha Phra Athit and the express boats to major historical sites along the river.
Heading north across Khlong Rop Krung (aka Khlong Banglamphu), Th Samsen runs parallel to the river heading north to Thewet. Small sois branching off the road shelter a couple of tired no-tell hotels on the east side, and nearer to the river a mix of newer cheap hotels and family-run guesthouses amid a typical village world of thick-hipped mothers, freshly bathed babies and neighbours shuffling off to the nearest shopkeeper to buy sundries. It’s a great area to wander.
A final note: we’re listing the Banglamphu guesthouses we like most, but there are loads of others that are clean and – possibly – cheaper.
BUDDY LODGE
Map Hotel $$
0 2629 4477; www.buddylodge.com; 265 Th Khao San; r 4000-5000B; air-con 511 & 516, ordinary 2 & 82; Tha Phra Athit (Banglamphu, N13);
It was when we arrived on Khao San in 2001 and saw a Rolls Royce parked outside the grand new Buddy Lodge that we knew the road had changed forever. With its middle-of-the-action location, rooftop pool and 76 attractive, tropical-manor style rooms, Buddy has been booming ever since – so get up early (or don’t go to bed) if you want a sun lounge. The McDonald’s in the lobby is cheesier than a cheeseburger and service is patchy, but if you book online (from 2200B) Buddy’s is good value. Wi-fi is 60B an hour; non-guests can use the pool for 200B.
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WHERE SHOULD I STAY?
If you don’t have time to read through the Neighbourhoods chapter Click here before booking your hotel, these words and phrases should help give you an idea of what Bangkok’s various neighbourhoods (and their soi dogs) have to offer. If your stay inspires other adjectives, by all means share them with us at www.lonelyplanet.com/talk2us.
Ko Ratanakosin & Thonburi Historic centre, royal palace, temples, golden spires, reclining Buddha, tourist buses, river ferry, sunsets, amulets, students, godowns, lazy soi dogs.
Banglamphu Old Bangkok, shophouses, village feel, hidden bars, the Khao San Rd, budget beds, intergalactic melting pot, fashion parade, sandals, flip-flops, braids, touts, wooden frogs, neon, traffic, mangy soi dogs.
Thewet & Dusit Parkland, European palaces, soulless space, village wet market, flowers, few hotels, no trains, royal soi dogs.
Chinatown Noise, energy, flavours, tiny lanes, neon signs, delicious street food, shophouses, stalls, Chinese characters (both kinds), wholesalers, temples, Golden Buddha, gold shops, túk-túks, battered Vespas, fat soi dogs.
Siam Square, Pratunam & Ploenchit Shopping, malls, business, air-conditioning, fashion, miniskirts, shopping, students, Jim Thompson, quiet Muslim village, noisy roads, golden gods, traffic, cinemas, harassed and unwelcome soi dogs, shopping.
Riverside, Silom & Lumphini Diplomatic, professional, establishment, views, river boats, classic hotels, rooftop bars, sleazy clubs, park, kickboxing, night bazaar, aerobics, Patpong.
Thanon Sukhumvit Modern, frivolous, hi-so, international and frenetic, lots of hotels, fine restaurants, boutique, wannabe-boutique, expats, sports bars, expensive cars, street stalls, T-shirts, sleazy soi, loud, Skytrain, healthy soi dogs with collars (and T-shirts in ‘winter’).
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OLD BANGKOK INN
Map Boutique Hotel $$
0 2629 1787; www.oldbangkokinn.com; 609 Th Phra Sumen; d 3190-3990B, ste from 5590B; air-con 511 & 516, ordinary 2, 12, 68 & 82; klorng boat to Tha Saphan Phan Fah;
Occupying several