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adjoining shophouses that were once a neighbourhood noodle house, this boutique hotel is now pleasingly decorated in colours that conjure up visions of desserts: crème caramel walls, dark cocoa furnishings, persimmon silk bedspreads and flowing white mosquito nets. The 10 rooms occupy unconventional and sometimes cramped spaces, including mezzanine floors, attics and, in the family-size Lotus room, a walk-through bathroom to a garden bathtub. They all evoke the historic feel of the district, which is what you’re here for, while catering to modern needs with internet-ready computer terminals. Service is excellent, and rates include wi-fi and breakfast (with 10% off for cash).

THE BHUTHORN

Map Boutique Hotel $$

0 2622 2270; thebhuthorn.com; 96-98 Th Phraeng Phuthon, San Chao Phor Seua; d from 2,800B;

In two century-old shophouses on a peaceful village square five minutes from the royal palace, the Bhuthorn is a delightfully stylish little B&B with wonderfully personal service to match. Its three rooms are the inspiration of Bangkok architects and veteran travellers Chitlada and Direk Senghluang, who spent four years renovating the heritage-listed building and fitting it with four-poster beds, antique cupboards and lamps, old photographs and Arabesque prints. The rooms come with flatscreen TVs, DVD players and free wi-fi. They’re not that big, but don’t feel so small and are great value… The Bhuthorn room is the pick.

VIENGTAI HOTEL

Map Hotel $$

0 2280 5434; www.viengtai.co.th; 42 Th Rambutri; s/d 2200/2400B; Tha Phra Athit (Banglamphu, N13);

The Viengtai has been a Banglamphu fixture since 1953 – long, long before the first reefer-toting backpackers strung up hammocks on Th Khao San. But as the area has taken off, so the basic Chinese-style hotel has renovated and extended itself firmly into the midrange. The 200 rooms are completely devoid of personality, but peace and comfort are givens. Wi-fi is 100B for 30 minutes.

NAVALAI RIVER RESORT

Map Boutique Hotel $$

0 2280 9955; www.navalai.com; 45/1 Th Phra Athit; d from 2100B; Tha Phra Athit (Banglamphu, N13);

Navalai is probably the most convincing evidence yet of Banglamphu’s rapid emergence as a place as much for midrangers as penny-pinching backpackers. Perched between the banks of Mae Nam Chao Phraya and arty Th Phra Athit, the busy 74-room boutique hotel delivers on location, style and – the ultimate 21st-century luxury – space. The rooms are big, have cheeky peep-show bathrooms and are decorated in an edgy-if-not-wild range of colours and artworks to complement sweeping river views. Then there’s the rooftop pool and riverside restaurant. Book ahead, and pay the extra 500B for a River Breeze room; Serene Corner rooms are mostly viewless.

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top picks

ROMANTIC STAYS

Money is No Object

Ma Du Zi Contemporary luxury, relaxed chic.

Mandarin Oriental Conrad, Maugham, Coward…and you.

Peninsula Hotel High rise, high style, breathtaking views.

Eugenia Explorer-style escapism.

Chakrabongse Villas Riverfront royal residence.

Affordable Romance

Ibrik Resort Simple west-bank seclusion.

The Bhuthorn (left) Step back in time without forfeiting modern comforts.

Arun Residence Sunsets over Wat Arun.

Old Bangkok Inn (opposite) Luxury shophouse living, family feel.

River View Guest House Million-baht views, pauper’s price tag.

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LAMPHU TREEHOUSE

Map Hotel $$

0 2282 0991; www.lamphutreehotel.com; Soi Baan Pan Thom, 155 Saphan Wanchat, Th Prachatipatai; s/d 1500/2100B; ordinary 9, 12 & 56;

Accessed via a klorng-side footpath running west from Saphan Wanchat (Wanchat Bridge), the Lamphu is no treehouse, but it is a very good-value hotel. The terracotta-coloured lobby opens onto a modest pool where backpackers loiter and, together with the engaging staff, give the place a pleasantly social ambience. The 40 rooms on four levels (with lift) are colourful, comfortable and now include TVs. Book ahead.

BOONSIRI PLACE

Map Hotel $$

0 2622 1551; www.boonsiriplace.com; 55 Th Buranasat; d 1500-1900B; air-con 511 & 516, ordinary 2 & 82; Tha Phra