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Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [162]

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and have been for years, prone to a certain ice-queen indifference that annoys some travellers but is ignored by most. That aside, it’s a real gem.

SRI AYUTTAYA GUEST HOUSE

Map Hostel $

0 2282 5942; Th Si Ayuthaya, Thewet; r 650-750B; ordinary 53 & 30; Tha Thewet (N15);

Offering a decent alternative to Shanti Lodge, the Sri Ayuttaya has romantic air-con rooms with pretty hardwood floors, exposed brick and other stylish touches. It’s not as social as Shanti, and service isn’t much more forthcoming, either. But it’s still superior to many Khao San–area flophouses charging the same dough.

BANGKOK INTERNATIONAL YOUTH HOSTEL

Map Hostel $

0 2282 0950; www.hihostels.com; 25/2 Th Phitsanulok, Dusit; dm 170B, r 450-1100B; ordinary 3, 12, 16, 53, 72, 505 & 516; Tha Thewet (N15);

In a dull location east of Th Samsen and the Thewet budget abodes, this HI has benefited from almost three years of renovations, with newer rooms boasting silk flourishes. The old rooms and dorms, however, remain cramped and tired. The main reason to stay is the generally enthusiastic nature of the guests and the Thai volunteers who lead free tours for a chance to practise their English. Take 50B off if you’re a member. Wi-fi is free.


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CHINATOWN

Many visitors venture into this neighbourhood in search of a little more cultural immersion than can be found in the multicultural Disneyland of Khao San. By and large Chinatown’s hotels suffer the same sort of total charisma bypass familiar in, well, Chinese cities, though there is one notable exception. The rates and rooms do, however, communicate in the international language for ‘value’. The edges of the district and the area around Hualamphong train station have some appealing cheap options among the dross, while the Indian district of Phahurat is less expensive and caters to low-end business travellers from the subcontinent. But do watch your pockets and bags around the Hualamphong area.

SHANGHAI MANSION

Map Boutique Hotel $$

0 2221 2121; www.shanghaimansion.com; 479 Th Yaowarat; r 3200-6400B; air-con 507, ordinary 73; Tha Ratchawong (N5); Hua Lamphong exit 3;

Chinatown is notable for its charisma more than its class, so wandering off manic Th Yaowarat into the boutique Shanghai is serendipity itself – completely unexpected. The hotel (formerly called Shanghai Inn) brings a technicolour, Shanghai Tang–style interpretation of ’30s Shanghai to Bangkok, and it has proved so popular that another 20 rooms have recently been added. They remain very good value, kitted out with Chinese-style four-poster beds, brightly painted walls, as many as 10 hanging silk lights and a free mini-bar (up to a point). Wi-fi is available throughout, and breakfast is included. The best place in Chinatown, by far. Online deals from 2200B.

GRAND CHINA PRINCESS

Map Hotel $$

0 2224 9977; www.grandchina.com; 215 Th Yaowarat; r 4200-4800B, ste from 8400B; air-con 507, ordinary 73; Tha Ratchawong (N5);

A certifiable monstrosity from the outside, this hotel in the heart of Chinatown is popular with groups and has nondescript but comfortable rooms buoyed by great views. The top floor has a panoramic rotating restaurant to make your dreams of gaudy Asia complete. Service is fairly good and rooms are available online from 2800B.

KRUNG KASEM SRIKUNG HOTEL

Map Hotel $

0 2225 8900; srikrung_htl@yahoo.com; 1860 Th Krung Kasem; d 700B; ordinary 25, 35 & 53; Hua Lamphong exit 3;

Across the klorng from Hualamphong train station, this institutional-style high-rise won’t win any design awards but the clean, sizable rooms are fair value. Rear rooms (with even numbers) are better because while the front rooms have train station views, they are buffeted by street noise.

RIVER VIEW GUEST HOUSE

Map Guesthouse $

0 2234 5429; www.riverviewbkk.com; 768 Soi Phanurangsi, Th Songwat; r 250-950B; ordinary 36 & 93; Tha Marine Department (N4); Hua Lamphong exit 1;

Overlooking a bend in the river, the aptly named River View has an awesome, affordable and refreshingly communal location between Silom and Chinatown,

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