Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [163]
River View is hidden among small lanes and can be tough to find, but if you get within about 250m you’ll start seeing signs.
TRAIN INN
Map Hostel $
0818 195 544; www.thetraininn.com; 428 Th Rong Muang (Th Hualamphong); r 450-900B; ordinary 9 & 36; Hua Lamphong exit 3;
In a strip of tired old budget places directly opposite the train station, the clean, secure and relatively funky Train Inn is a breath of fresh air. Owner Jana maintains a young, friendly and helpful atmosphere and her 41 rooms are hostel-style compact; the ‘1st-class’ rooms are best; others can be noisy, so ask to see a few. Cable broadband is included in the 1st-class price and is 200B per day in other rooms.
BAAN HUALAMPONG
Map Guesthouse $
0 2639 8054; www.baanhualampong.com; 336/20 Chaloen Krung, Th Phra Ram IV; dm/s 220/290B, d 570-900B; Hua Lamphong exit 4;
Off a quiet soi a few minutes’ walk from the station, this old-style wood-and-concrete guesthouse has developed a loyal following among those seeking a mix of family atmosphere and backpacker self-sufficiency. The tiny rooftop garden is a great place to get to know your baan-mates over a sundowner, and you’ll probably spend more time there and in the ground-floor communal space than in the simple rooms. The manager speaks English and German and is a font of knowledge – see the website for the cheapest possible ways of getting here. If you get here and don’t fancy it, there’s an equally good place directly across the soi.
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SIAM SQUARE, PRATUNAM & PLOENCHIT
As central as Bangkok gets, this area is conveniently located on the Skytrain near shopping centres and loads of high-rise chain hotels. In the midrange, a devoted cast of túk-túk and taxi drivers throng the entrances of hotels, zealously pouncing on every map-toting victim. If you’re a pedestrian wanderer, you’ll be happier at a smaller hotel that is less of a target. Soi Kasem San 1, off Th Phra Ram I, has a cluster of nice guesthouses for the early-to-bed, early-to-rise traveller. For more on the Siam Sq and Pratunam district, see Click here.
FOUR SEASONS HOTEL
Map Luxury Hotel $$$
0 2126 8866; www.fourseasons.com/bangkok; 155 Th Ratchadamri; d from 8000B; Ratchadamri exit 4;
A spectacular mural descending a grand staircase, ceilings adorned with neck-craning artwork and a library-quiet lobby punctuated with muscular columns give the Four Seasons a tone of relaxed opulence that continues into the lauded restaurants – especially Biscotti and Madison. These, and an open-air jungle courtyard, complement the 353 luxurious if not enormous rooms. Wi-fi is extra.
GRAND HYATT ERAWAN
Map Luxury Hotel $$$
0 2254 1234; bangkok.grand.hyatt.com; 494 Th Ratchadamri; d from 7700B; Chit Lom exit 8;
The Erawan’s neoclassical lobby, embellished with mature tropical trees, sets the tone in what is one of Bangkok’s most respected hotels. The 320 rooms are relatively big and well designed, with smart use of mirrors and well-positioned desks complementing an attractive modern Asian decor of hardwoods, silks and white marble. Rooms on the west side have the best views, overlooking the prestigious Bangkok Royal Sports Club racetrack.
SIAM@SIAM
Map Boutique Hotel $$$
0 2217 3000; www.siamatsiam.com; 865 Th Phra Ram I; d from 5700B; National Stadium exit 1;
Siam@Siam has taken the concept of industrial design pretty much as far as it can go. Wire sculptures stand on polished concrete and railway sleepers cover every exposed pylon. And thanks to a thoughtful design and liberal splashes of warm, earthy tones, it works. The 203 rooms occupy the 14th to 25th floors and they are not huge, but all have city views and are well equipped; ask for one overlooking National