Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [166]
MANDARIN ORIENTAL
Map Hotel $$$
0 2659 9000; www.mandarinoriental.com/Bangkok; 48 Soi 38, Th Charoen Krung; r from US$420; Tha Oriental (N1); Saphan Taksin exit 3 or exit 2 & hotel ferry;
Dating to 1876, the Oriental Hotel is one of Southeast Asia’s grand colonial-era hotels and one of the most luxurious and most respected in the region. The hotel’s storied history of steamer travel and famous guests (see the boxed text, opposite) lives on in the original Author’s Wing, a Victorian-era, gingerbread-style residence with rooms and suites dedicated to the famous writers who bedded and penned here.
The management prides itself on highly personalised service – once you’ve stayed here the staff will remember your name and what you like to eat for breakfast – though it’s more formal and less relaxed than some younger competitors. Most of the 400 rooms are in the ageing River and Tower wings, which have contemporary Thai decorations, spacious bathrooms and river terraces. The establishment feel extends to the famed Le Normandie French restaurant and the bars, though you should find the sublime spa, on the Thonburi side of the river, more relaxing.
PENINSULA HOTEL
Map Hotel $$$
0 2861 2888; www.bangkok.peninsula.com; 333 Th Charoen Nakhon, Khlongsan; d from 13,000B; Tha Sathon (Central Pier) & private ferry dock near the Oriental Hotel; Saphan Taksin exit 2 & hotel ferry;
Arguments over which is the best hotel in Bangkok inevitably end up with the Oriental and the Peninsula near the top of the list. And for all the Oriental’s history and grandeur, the Peninsula’s location, style, classic but unpretentious service and pure class make it very difficult to top. The lobby is poised and polished, an Asian-esque temple of squared black marble hallways and confident power players. Being on the Thonburi side of the river, the Peninsula enjoys views of both the river and the skyline beyond, an incandescent combination so picturesque it can sear a sultry sunset into the mind forever. The 370 tech-filled rooms boast oversized desks and private fax numbers to go with the understated style. All of this is complemented by fine restaurants and one of the city’s best spas. World class. Wi-fi is included; online deals from 10,000B.
SHANGRI-LA HOTEL
Map Hotel $$$
0 2236 7777; www.shangri-la.com/bangkok; 89 Soi Wat Suan Phlu, Th Charoen Krung; d from 8000B; Tha Sathon (Central Pier); Saphan Taksin exit 1;
The Shangri-La might be more than 20 years old but it has aged gracefully enough that it could be said to have matured. Service is first class and the 799 rooms are done in an understated, New Asia aesthetic. It works particularly well in the main wing, where the curved sides ensure everyone gets a river view (still, it’s worth asking for a room close to the river). It’s within the luxury sphere, yet families won’t feel like bulls in a china shop and compared with its neighbours it’s positively cheap. The ‘exclusive’ Krung Thep wing has lower-rise terraces overlooking the river. Wi-fi is included; online deals from 6000B.
MILLENNIUM HILTON
Map Hotel $$$
0 2442 2000; bangkok.hilton.com; 123 Th Charoen Nakhorn, Klongsan; r from 6500B; private ferry from River City & Tha Sathon (Central Pier);
After a decade as a 32-storey concrete skeleton on the far bank of Chao Phraya, the Millennium Hilton finally opened in 2006 and now stands proudly, like a sailor in his cap, among the riverside top-end matrons. The modern Asian design creates a more stylish and less formal atmosphere than its neighbours. The buffet cafe, Flow, sets the tone with fresh food and river views. The Beach makes the most of a modest-sized pool by putting the sunbeds in the water, and ThreeSixty bar fills out that sailor’s cap with jazz and unrivalled views – nice. The 543 rooms aren’t huge