Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [167]
BAAN PRA NOND
Map Boutique Hotel $$
0 2212 2242; www.baanpranond.com; 18/1 Th Charoen Rat, Yannawa, Sathon; d from 3450B; Surasak exit 2;
Built 70 years ago, and abandoned for most of the last 15, this colonial-style villa has been restored and transformed into a boutique B&B by the original owner’s granddaughter. Nine small-but-bright rooms in two yellow-washed colonial-style villas feature classic 1930s decor; floor tiles, four-poster beds, overhead fans, wind-up alarm clocks and crisp white linen. The ground floor boasts a communal space that is perfect for chatting with helpful hosts Tasma and Jason, and a pint-sized pool in the courtyard. The only catch is the location between two busy roads; double glazing is not quite enough to muffle all the noise.
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FROM LITERATI TO GLITTERATI
Now a famous grand dame, the Oriental Hotel started its career as the seafarers’ version of a Th Khao San guesthouse. The original owners, two Danish sea captains, traded the nest to Hans Niels Andersen, the founder of the formidable East Asiatic Company. Andersen transformed the hotel into a civilised palace of grand architecture and luxury standards. He hired an Italian architect, S Cardu, to design what is now the Author’s Wing, which was the city’s most fantastic building not constructed by the king.
The rest of the hotel’s history relies on its famous guests. A Polish-born sailor named Joseph Conrad stayed here in 1888. The hotel brought him good luck: he got his first command on the ship Otago, from Bangkok to Port Adelaide, which in turn gave him ideas for several early stories. W Somerset Maugham stumbled into the hotel with an advanced case of malaria. In his feverish state, he heard the German manager arguing with the doctor about how a death in the hotel would hurt business. Maugham’s overland Southeast Asian journey is recorded in Gentleman in the Parlour: A Record of a Journey from Rangoon to Haiphong, which gave literary appeal to the hotel. Other notable guests have included Noel Coward, Graham Greene, John le Carré, James Michener, Gore Vidal and, erm, Barbara Cartland. Some modern-day writers claim that an Oriental stay will overcome writer’s block – though we suspect any writer staying these days would need a very generous advance indeed.
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SWAN HOTEL
Map Hotel $$
0 2235 9271-73; www.swanhotelbkk.com; 31 Soi 36, Th Charoen Krung, Bangrak; s 800-1200B, d 900-2000B; Tha Si Phraya (N3); Saphan Taksin exit 3;
Hidden among shade trees and quiet riverside lanes, the Swan Hotel has been around almost long enough (45 years) to have earned its own place in the lore of this historic neighbourhood. The 67 rooms are clean, compact and well equipped, with decor that is tasteful if not extravagent. But the main attractions are the delightful pool and surrounding garden that most rooms look onto, and the excellent value for this area. Wi-fi is 300B a day; rooms are 20% cheaper online.
NEW ROAD GUESTHOUSE
Map Guesthouse $
0 2630 6994-98; www.jysk-rejsebureau.dk; 1216/1 Th Charoen Krung, Bangrak; dm 130-220B, d 800-1300B, apt 2500B; Tha Si Phraya (N3); Saphan Taksin exit 3;
Despite being far from Banglamphu and just off one of the busiest roads in Bangkok, the New Road is the go-to budget joint in this part of town and one of the more upbeat and enjoyable guesthouses in all of Bangkok. Run by young Danish guys whose main gig is running budget-priced (and oft-recommended) tours around Thailand, the atmosphere is amiable and the evenings-only bar is a great place to meet other travellers. Rooms range from simple fan dorms to comfortable doubles and a four-room apartment ideal for families.
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SILOM
Parts of Silom are well served by the Skytrain, with Sala Daeng and Chong Nonsi stations most useful, which is a relief because traffic crawls day and night. Cars move