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Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [171]

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and a modern minimalism that has everything satisfyingly in its right place. The 210 rooms carry the theme and most have views of the extensive gardens and ponds that are far enough back from busy Th Sathorn to be wonderfully quiet. All up, very classy, with restaurants Celadon and La Scala rounding it out. Rooms online from about 8,000B.

BANYAN TREE HOTEL

Map Hotel $$$

0 2679 1200; www.banyantree.com; Thai Wah II Bldg, 21/100 Th Sathon Tai, Sathon; d from 10,500B; Lumphini exit 2;

The Banyan Tree is housed in one of Bangkok’s most recognisable buildings, a sleek wafer of a skyscraper with a huge circular hole through it and a rooftop fitted out with the dreamy Moon Bar. The mood is more spa than hotel, with the fragrance of gardenias and the sound of splashing water in the foyer and no less than six levels of spa facilities. The views are memorable and the rooms are remarkably smart given the hotel is getting on a bit in years. All up an excellent top-end choice, but with a few too many stairs for families with young kids. Online from 5600B, or third night free.

METROPOLITAN

Map Hotel $$$

0 2625 3322; www.metropolitan.como.bz; 27 Th Sathon Tai, Sathon; d US$290-360, ste US$420-2000; Lumphini exit 2;

The very essence of urban cool – with the members- and hotel-guests-only Met Bar to prove it – the Metropolitan was reborn from the ashes of, wait for it, a YMCA. The techno-cool lobby leads to sleek modern rooms with white-on-black contrasts. But the ghost of hostels past is still apparent in the cramped and overpriced City rooms, where minimalist becomes torturous, though the bathrooms remain big enough for rock-star primping. The suites are more humane and the two-storey suites are the ultimate in expansive expensive luxury. The two in-house restaurants are excellent. The Met usually has serious online discounts, with rooms often as cheap as US$119 if you stay two nights.

TIVOLI HOTEL

Map Hotel $$

0 2249 5858; www.thetivolihotelbangkok.com; 71/2-3 Soi Sri Bumphen, Th Yen Akat, Sathon; d 2000-3000B; Khlong Toei, exit 1;

The 133-room Tivoli is a classy new hotel that punches well above its midrange price tag. The contemporary design approaches chic in an orange way, and unlike some in this bracket the Tivoli has few rough edges. Rooms (with DVD players and big flatscreen TVs) and public spaces, including the rooftop pool and bar, are thoughtfully designed. For us, however, the most impressive aspect was the management, with staff thoroughly professional and only too happy to help out. Wi-fi is free in the lobby but 420B a day in-room.

ALL SEASONS

Map Hotel $$

0 2343 6333; www.allseasons-sathorn.com; 31 Th Sathon Tai; r 2000-2500B; Lumphini exit 2;

After a 2008 makeover hauling it into the 21st century, the All Seasons, nee King, offers 78 spacious, mostly high-ceilinged rooms for an attractive price amid the embassies. The ambience is modern Asia, with yellow, red and green on white, and comforts include rain shower, desk with free wi-fi and cable broadband, and flatscreen TV on the wall. Superior and deluxe rooms are best; the rooftop ‘exclusive’ rooms are small but include a 6pm checkout. Online deals from 1000B.

MALAYSIA HOTEL

Map Hotel $

0 2679 7127; www.malaysiahotelbkk.com; 54 Soi Ngam Duphli, Th Phra Ram IV; d 798-998B; Lumphini exit 1;

After almost 40 years the Malaysia’s glory days as Bangkok’s most famous budget travellers’ hotel are long gone, but it remains very busy and good value in an aging, almost-but-not-quite retro-cool way. Its reputation as a gay pick-up scene means that most of the women you will see are on the staff, though the manager assures us that ‘anyone is welcome, not only gays’. The 119 rooms are a good size and good value.

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THE PERILS OF ONLINE BOOKING Karla Zimmerman

Neon bikinis: that’s odd, we thought, as our taxi drove out of the snarled traffic on Th Sukhumvit and up to our hotel. The building across the street was bursting with women clad in glowing skimp-wear. German oompah songs wafted through the air, and advertisements for ‘bratwursts’ covered menu boards

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