Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [172]
Yes, we were jet-lagged, having just spent 21 hours to reach Bangkok, and it was the middle of the night, when strange things tend to happen. But bratwursts and fluorescent bikinis?
We entered the hotel lobby, where Western men and young Thai women nuzzled on all the available couches. That’s when the light bulb popped over our heads, and we realised our situation: the room we’d booked on the internet – a room of ‘luxurious comfort’ with ‘teakwood decorations and cable TV’ – was located in a de facto brothel. We’d arrived at the Nana Entertainment Plaza.
A quick amble around the hotel grounds brought us to bars like Hollywood Strip (Pool! Shows! Girls! Darts!), Carnival (GoGo Girls, Girls, Girls!) and G-Spot (250 Girls Upstairs!). The latter’s dancers made the neon-bikini group look practically Amish by comparison.
Despite the distraction of drinking one’s beer and eating one’s pàt tai in venues where most of the patrons were getting hand jobs, we appreciated our unplanned bite of this classic slice of Bangkok. Next time, though, we’ll be more careful when booking online. While a hotel that touts ‘easy access, 24 hours’ can’t be faulted for false advertising, it’s wise to remember that words have multiple meanings.
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THANON SUKHUMVIT
Much of Bangkok’s recent rush to build condos, offices and hotels has been played out in a sea of cranes and jackhammers along Th Sukhumvit’s lower soi. More than 15 new hotels have opened since 2006, mostly falling into the boutique or wannabe boutique categories. As a result Sukhumvit has the city’s widest choice of midrange accommodation at the most competitive prices.
Sukhumvit is the most cosmopolitan part of Bangkok, home to thousands of expats and ‘hi-so’ (high society) Thais whose spending power supports hundreds of restaurants – Italian and Japanese being the most common. Th Sukhumvit itself is dominated by the Skytrain, which runs above it for several kilometres and at points creates a canyon-like sound trap.
Down on the ground the street is divided into two distinct districts. West of Soi Asoke (Soi 21) is the main tourist sector where the 1960s R & R days live on in sois full of girlie bars. It’s easy enough to avoid these, though escaping the streetside stalls flogging cheap souvenirs and fake DVDs is impossible. That said, business is so good that the touting is pretty tame. Around Soi 11 and nearby are plenty of lower midrange hotels with rate sheets that often include ‘joiner fees’. East of Soi Asoke, the girlie bars are replaced with residential areas, package-tour hotels and a growing number of interesting little abodes, like Eugenia and Seven.
Sukhumvit traffic is diabolical, but by using the Skytrain you can rise above most of it when heading west to the shopping areas and the riverside. The Metro connects at Asoke and is by far the easiest way to get to the northern bus station, Hualamphong train station and Chinatown.
MA DU ZI
Map Boutique Hotel $$$
0 2615 6400; www.maduzihotel.com; cnr Th Ratchadapisek & Sukhumvit Soi 16; r from 8,900B; Sukhumvit exit 2; Asok exit 6;
Ma Du Zi means ‘come and see’ and those who do come find a masterpiece of design, with every detail thought of and the fittings of the highest order. Each of the 41 rooms has a work desk with fax/copier/printer, an espresso machine, original artwork, and a restrained but stylish luxury in white marble, blonde wood and black furniture – some even have remote-controlled bath tubs. Rooms are huge, starting at 49 sq metres and climbing to 79 sq metres. So too are the prices, and there is no pool. Still, the service is excellent, it’s extremely discreet (no walk-ins), and the French restaurant is top-notch.
SHERATON GRANDE SUKHUMVIT
Map Hotel $$$
0 2649 8888; www.sheratongrandesukhumvit.com; 250 Th Sukhumvit; r from 7,500B; Sukhumvit exit 3; Asok via dedicated skyway;
The Sheraton is a hit with corporate travellers because it’s arguably the most professionally managed hotel in Bangkok. Its 420 large (from 45