Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [178]
To the northeast, the Dangrek Mountains geographically fuse Thailand and Cambodia and break up the fertile central plains around Bangkok. Occupying this wooded landscape is Khao Yai National Park, one of Thailand’s biggest and best preserves, where mountainous monsoon forests boast hundreds of resident species. Visitors can take quick dips into nature while staying at a nearby resort, also playing golf and touring start-up wineries. Or immerse yourself completely by staying in a rustic park shelter in the forest. Waterfalls tend to dominate Khao Yai itineraries, but you might also be lucky enough to spot the big game, though don’t get your hopes up too high. The wildlife is, erm, wild, and unlikely to just wander up for a quick chat and a beer.
West of Bangkok, limestone hills rise out of the sun-parched land like a great ruined city. Kanchanaburi is the best base for exploring this area of waterfalls, caves and tropical jungle. Bike rides will take you past shaggy fields of sugar cane being harvested by hand, and lovingly tended spirit houses guarding uninhabited woods. Organised tours take visitors on whirlwind outings by land, water and rail, or you can rent a bike and DIY.
Further south along Thailand’s rugged border with Myanmar (Burma), Kaeng Krachan National Park, the country’s largest, is a paradise for birdwatchers and others looking to do some camera hunting or just immerse themselves in the steamy jungle.
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TIME TRAVEL
Thailand’s heroic ancient capital, Ayuthaya, is a Unesco World Heritage site and a major pilgrimage site for anyone interested in Thai history. It is hard to imagine today, but this modern city littered with red-brick temple ruins was once a golden city that bewitched European traders in the heyday of the Asian trade route. Nearby Bang Pa-In, a royal summer palace, survives as testament to the cosmopolitan nature of the Siamese kingdom, embracing architectural styles from far and wide.
More-recent masterpieces of Thai art can be seen in the vivid wall paintings and graceful stucco facades of Phetchaburi’s numerous temples. A day of wandering can provide viewing opportunities of several of the recognised masterpieces of central Thai art, with a glimpse into royal life in the hilltop palace.
Ancient Siam, an architectural museum in Samut Prakan, has reproduced Thailand’s great monuments in a tastefully arranged park. Like Ayuthaya, Ancient Siam is best explored by bicycle; the peaceful grounds and impressive structures will inspire excursions throughout the country.
More-recent history is only a train ride away in Kanchanaburi, where vivid museums, themed excursions and touching monuments bring home the area’s tragic history as a WWII labour camp.
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THAI LIFE
The Mahachai Rail Line, will transport you directly to the rhythms of daily life outside the capital. The destinations, a string of gulfside towns and wáts, are really just excuses to dive into the markets and food stalls that make up the journey and are the real Thailand for millions of Thais.
Phetchaburi’s twisting back lanes, peak-roofed Thai-style wooden houses and rambling morning market combine to form the epitome of central Thai life.
Outside the capital, village life is still tied to the klorng (canals) and rivers that knit the land to the sea. Amphawa’s canalside setting and ancient wooden houses look like they are straight out of a movie set, and homestays can provide a firsthand experience of this uniquely Thai community. Elsewhere, largely touristy floating markets are the last remnants of a traditional Thai lifestyle that has all but disappeared.
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SAND & SUN
With its emerald seas, languid breezes and blond strips of sand, Ko Samet is the island getaway nearest to Bangkok. Bungalow operations dot several bays, ranging from break-the-bank luxury to Spartan backpacker shacks. Days are spent in typical island-paradise style; swinging in hammocks, swimming, eating barbecued seafood and other miscellaneous