Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [179]
Hat Chao Samran, a short jaunt from Phetburi, provides the sand, cosy accommodation and cheap seafood necessary for a proper Thai-style beach getaway.
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AYUTHAYA
Drawn by the prospect of ruined temples, the majority of visitors to this former Thai capital do so from a big bus on a tight tour schedule. Which is great, because it means you’ll be among relatively few people when you discover that Ayuthaya offers not only a glimpse into the past, but also a great break from city life. Famously delicious food, good-value accommodation and the chance to see the temples in the cool, quiet dawn might even persuade you to stay a night or two.
Built at the confluence of three rivers (Chao Phraya, Pa Sak and Lopburi), this island city was the seat of a powerful Siamese kingdom that dominated the region for 400 years. Both courted and aided by foreign interests, the empire eventually extended its control deep into present-day Laos, Cambodia and Myanmar (Burma).
Ayuthaya remained one of the world’s most splendid and cosmopolitan cities until 1767, when the Burmese, after several attempts, eventually conquered and destroyed it, levelling many temples, decapitating Buddha images and carting off anything of value. The surviving Thai army fled south to re-establish control in Thonburi and, 15 years later, moved across the river to found the new capital, Bangkok.
Getting a handle on the religious and historical importance of the temples can be difficult without doing some preliminary research. Ayuthaya Historical Study Centre ( 0 3524 5124; Th Rotchana; adult/student 100/50B; 9am-4.30pm) offers informative, professional displays that paint a very clear picture of the ancient city. The museums in town include Chao Sam Phraya National Museum ( 0 3524 1587; cnr Th Rotchana & Th Si Sanphet; admission 30B; 9am-4pm Wed-Sun), which features a basic round-up of Thai Buddhist sculpture with an emphasis on Ayuthaya pieces, and Chantharakasem National Museum ( 0 3525 1586; Th U Thong; admission 100B; 9am-4pm Wed-Sun), a museum piece in itself, in the northeast corner of town.
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AYUTHAYA HISTORICAL PARK
The Ayuthaya Historical Park is separated into two distinct geographical districts. Ruins ‘on the island’, in the central part of town west of Th Chee Kun, are most easily visited on bicycle or motorbike; those ‘off the island’, opposite the river from the centre, are best visited by way of an evening boat tour. You can also take a bicycle across the river by boat, starting from the pier near Pom Phet fortress, which is inside the southeast corner of the city centre. The ruins are open from 8am to 6pm daily unless otherwise noted below, and at many there will be a 50B admission fee; alternatively purchase a 220B day pass which will cover the lot. To find more detailed descriptions of the ruins, you can pick up the Ayutthaya booklet from TAT (see Click here).
On the Island
Wat Phra Si Sanphet was once the largest temple in Ayuthaya and it was used as the royal temple-palace by several kings. Built in the 14th century, the compound contained a 16m standing Buddha coated with 250kg of gold, which was melted down and carted off by the Burmese conquerors. Its three Ayuthaya-style chedi (stupas) have come to be identified with Thai art more than any other style. The adjacent Wat Phra Mongkhon Bophit, built in the 1950s, houses one of the largest bronze, seated Buddhas in Thailand.
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TRANSPORT: AYUTHAYA
Distance from Bangkok 85km
Direction North
Travel Time Eighty minutes to two hours by bus; 1½ hours by train
Bus 1st-class air-con (72B) and 2nd-class air-con (55B) buses depart Bangkok’s Northern and Northeastern Bus Terminal (also called Mo Chit; Map) to Th Naresuan in Ayuthaya every 15 minutes between 4.30am and 7.15pm.
Minibus Minibuses hurtle between Bangkok’s Victory Monument (Map) and Th Naresuan Soi 8, just down from the main concentration of guesthouses, every 30 minutes from 5am to 5pm (60B). This trip