Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [181]
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INFORMATION
Tourist Information Centre (TAT; 0 3532 2730/1; Th Si Sanphet; 8.30am-4.30pm) Occupying the imposing Old City Hall built in 1941, the helpful ladies at TAT provide maps, bus schedules and information about Loi Krathong festivities (see Click here). Ask for a free copy of Ayutthaya, the excellent illustrated booklet published by TAT.
Tourist Police ( 0 3524 1446 or 1155; Th Si Sanphet; 24h)
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BANG PA-IN
This postcard-perfect palace ( 0 3526 1044; admission 100B; 8am-5pm) lies 24km south of Ayuthaya. A hodgepodge of international architectural styles reflects the eclectic tastes of Rama IV (King Mongkut; r 1851–68) and his son and heir Rama V (King Chulalongkorn; r 1868–1910), both of whom used the residence as a retreat from the summer rains. The winged-eaved Thai-style pavilion, ornate Chinese-style Wehat Chamrun Palace and Swiss chalet mansion (the preferred residence of Rama V) are all on display. A flamboyant lookout tower (Withun Thatsana) gave the king fine views over the gardens and lakes.
At the nearby Royal Folk Arts & Crafts Centre ( 0 3536 6252; admission 100B; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm Sat & Sun) at Bang Sai you can see traditional Thai handicrafts and artwork being made.
Bang Pa-In can be reached by blue sǒrng·tăa·ou (pick-up truck; 13B, 45 min) or minibus (30B) from Ayuthaya’s Chao Phrom Day Market (Map) on Th Naresuan. From Bangkok there are buses (50B) every half-hour from the Northern and Northeastern Bus Terminal (Mo Chit; Map). You can also reach Bang Pa-In by train from Bangkok; two depart each morning (3rd class, 12B).
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EATING
Ban Wacharachai ( 0 3532 1333; Wat Kasattrathirat; dishes 60-150B; 10am-midnight) A must for visiting foodies, this gem is legendary among locals and regular visitors alike for its perfectly executed central Thai–style dishes, not to mention a pleasant riverfront location. The smoked snakehead fish is sublime. To get there, cycle or take a túk-túk to Wat Kasattrathirat (known as Wat Kasat); the rambling restaurant is hidden in a thick garden directly north of the temple.
Hua Raw Night Market & Chao Phrom Day Market (Th U Thong) Much of Ayuthaya’s best food is prepared in these modest surrounds. Vendors at the open-air night market ( 5pm-10pm) specialise in Thai-Muslim dishes, while the covered day market ( 7am-5pm) is more classically central Thai.
Phae Krung Kao ( 0 3524 1555; Th U Thong; dishes 60-200B; 9am-9pm) South of the bridge, this floating restaurant is renowned for its carefully prepared seafood dishes and is hugely popular with visiting Thais, though it has a tendency to tone down dishes for fà·ràng.
In the past, Ayuthayans got their noodle fix from boat-based vendors who hocked their bowls along the city’s canals and rivers. Today the vessels are all landlocked, but the famous gǒo·ay đěe·o reu·a (boat noodles) remain as popular as ever. Lung Lek (Th Chee Kun; dishes 15B; 10am-4pm) serves incredibly intense gǒo ay·đěe·o reu·a with pork or beef that our dining companion euphorically described as ‘perhaps the best noodles ever!’ Look for the open-air tent-like structure. Slightly more popular but less spicy is Paa Lek (Th Bang Ian; dishes 12B; 9am-4pm), a sprawling roadside stall next door to the city’s telephone authority; look for the yellow sign in Thai.
Sweet snacks associated with Ayuthaya include roti săi mài (thin pancake-like sheets wrapped around candy floss), available from numerous vendors near Phra Nakorn Si Ayuthaya Hospital. Kà·nǒm bà bin (tiny pancakes made from sticky rice flour and shredded coconut meat) can be found at the market behind Wat Phra Mongkhon Bophit.
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DRINKING
Several drinking options are conveniently located along a 50m strip of Soi 8, Th Naresuan, the epicentre of Ayuthaya’s traveller scene. When we visited, Street Lamp ( 7am-midnight) was the pick, with a local one-man-band teeing up the patrons for a remarkably good